In 1995, Audemars Piguet turned 120. To mark the occasion, AP looked into their catalogue for the most prestigious, representative piece it could build upon and landed, naturally, on the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. The result was the ref. 25810OR, produced that year in a run of just 120 examples—one...

When Vacheron Constantin introduced reference 43031 in 1983, it was the first time the maison had ever put a perpetual calendar on the wrist. Conceived in the depths of the quartz crisis, it stood as a defiant statement—alongside Audemars Piguet's 5548 of 1978 and Patek Philippe's 3940 of 1985—that classical...

Patek Philippe’s first serially produced Tourbillon also happened to be a Minute Repeater. That’s not even the most astonishing thing about the ref. 3939, though, as when it was introduced in 1992 it came to market at just 33mm. The manual calibre RTO-27-PS took up the entire caseback, with little...

The reference 25668BA is Audemars Piguet's Openworked Quantième Perpétuel in yellow gold, and the most expressive of a bloodline that begins with the 5548 of 1978. Where the 5548 introduced the thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar the world had seen to revive mechanical watchmaking in Switzerland, the 25668 stripped the movement...

Few watches encapsulate the 1970s luxury sports movement like the Vacheron Constantin 222, launched in 1977 to mark the maison's 222nd anniversary. While Gérald Genta drew the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the 222 came from a young Jorg Hysek. The range spanned the 37mm 'Jumbo' ref. 44018, this 34mm midsize...

The 25829BA is the Royal Oak QP Skeleton in yellow gold, the second generation of skeletonized RO QP and the first with a leap year indication. Introduced in 1996 and produced in small batches through roughly 2009, it captures a very specific moment: Switzerland emerging from the quartz crisis with...

There is no numeral like a Breguet numeral, and even Patek Philippe knows it. This is not a Saatchi, but well before. To commemorate the 2006 opening of the Geneva Salon, which coincided with the end of 3970 production, four special sets each with four metals were made and offered...

Well before the Land-Dweller and even before the Oysterquartz, there was this: the 1530. Known colloquially as the ‘mechanical Oysterquartz’, this is in fact an entirely mechanical wristwatch. It is not the first integrated bracelet Rolex (either the Midas, Texano, or ref. 9083 depending on your definition), but it is...

The 5970R we know and love usually has a silver dial. Those who were lucky enough to be able to place a special order, though, could opt for this black. Only one other has come to auction, this will be the second. Patek Philippe have a long history of granting...

Souscription Resonance is now mentioned in the same way collectors talk about 1526 and 2523. In the latter, tiny differences really matter. Souscriptions are largely a similar production. But this one isn’t, it’s two-tone. And two-tone in pink with platinum is the best sort of two-tone. All of these are...

Finds. With all that’s come since, it’s easy to overlook that this is unquestionably the original über-Lange. A moonshot project imagined but a few days after the Berlin wall fell, this was the watch was to prove to the Swiss that this ragtag German upstart should be taken seriously. Blümlein...

This, Audemars Piguet’s 1986 ref. 25636, is the first AP skeletonized perpetual calendar of any sort. It was released in 1986, a full two years ahead of the 36mm ref. 25668 skeleton in a circular case. It’s not the first-ever skeleton QP, VC’s 43032 was released in 1984. But it...

The 25657OR was made in 362 examples in pink gold, between 1982 and 1993. This is the golden era of neo-vintage AP and they’re quite under-sung. For whatever reasons (likely because 1821 examples exist, AP made a few), they’ve relatively accessible and easy to come by today despite being one...

There are probably far fewer than 10 of these: an Audemars Piguet ref. 25661 in platinum with a mother of pearl dial. Within the long march of the QP which brought back complicated watchmaking to Switzerland (famously developed in secret), the 25661 was first to feature a display caseback—which here...

In 1983, Vacheron Constantin announced to the world their intentions to return to traditional, complicated mechanical watchmaking in the wake of the quartz crisis with the ref. 43031 Perpetual Calendar. Switzerland had been decimated, with watch industry employment falling from 90,000 to 28,000 and the number of dedicated watchmakers employed...

Audemars Piguet remained independently owned through the tumultuous 1990s and 2000s (still are), led by Georges-Henri Meylan and later Philippe Merk, where many of their peers were gobbled up in acquisitions. The former spearheaded the highly contemporary Royal Oak QP Skeleton. First came the ref. 25636, followed by this 25829....

Vacheron Constantin’s Mercator is a time-only quite unlike any other. Released in 1994, it sought to honor the 400th anniversary of Gerardus Mercator who created map projection—the basis of all modern cartography. He was also, notably, a calligrapher and engraver: both of which inspired the overall basis for this ref....

In the world of 90s Holy Trinity chronographs, I don’t think you can make an argument against VC having the sexiest case. The 5070 is lovely, but not this voluptuous. It’s thoughtful enough to not be retro, yet a bastion of traditional watchmaking technique. It might just be the most...