Empire, Yellow Gold

The Breguet Empire is amongst the first serial production wristwatches made by the manufacturer. When looking at the over 20 year production length of the Empire starting in 1950 through a modern lens it is easy to assume that production volume was equally large. However, the Empire was produced under the traditional watchmaking business model prior to the Roth era, more closely aligned with that of modern independents than the major manufacturers of today. Empire examples were made-to-order, their production never standardized and was reliant on the rare observatory chronometre calibre Peseux 260 that was limited to approximately 3,300 examples, and would go on to beat within Voutilainen’s own Observatoire.

When the Breguet family decided to sell their atelier in 1870, they found a natural buyer in Edward Brown. Brown, an English watchmaker had served as the shop manager and later partner within the Paris based shop. His family would own the brand for the next 100 years maintaining the classic, pocket-watch inspired aesthetics and hand finishing of the earlier brand. During this period the brand focussed primarily on military tool watches like the Type XX, along with small production of civilian variants like this Empire. While it was offered for about 2 decades from approximately 1950-1973, its production was far from standard. The brand had not yet undergone the restructuring for commercial expansion that would occur under the Chaumet brothers and Daniel Roth. The Empire was produced under a more traditional watchmaking business philosophy, it was primarily made-to-order for clients commissioning examples directly from the Paris based shop. 

Over the long duration of Empire production starting around 1950, small design changes occurred though the classic three hand dress watch remained remarkably consistent. Cases all used a soldered straight lug design, though earlier examples often feature more stylized or hooked lugs. Hand sets can be found in both gold and heat blued steel. Sizes increased in the 1960s to 35-36mm from the 34.5-35mm offered previously. Production of the Empire was not only constrained by order volume, it relied on the rare limited production Peseux 260 calibre, the same calibre used in Voutilainen’s Observatoire that would inspire his first in-house Caliber 28. It was one of the most accurate of the era. Initially developed for observatory chronometry it was never offered commercially, just ~3,300 were made before production ceased in 1970. While hidden behind a closed caseback it features beautiful perlage and Geneva striping. 

This example from 1973 is likely one of the final produced, its design was therefore well established and clear links can be found to watches from the Roth era of Breguet that immediately followed. However, its gold pomme or Breguet hands are a contrast from the typical heat blued steel hands Roth standardized. It features a hand turned clous de Paris guilloché pattern on dial and subdial, both terminate gracefully with a dimpled pattern framing brushed tracks. The coin edge of its 35mm yellow gold case is a direct tie to the brand’s storied history in pocket watches.  

While the Breguet Empire is one of the longest produced watches for the brand, it is far from a standard production watch. The made-to-order philosophy of Breguet under the Brown family’s direction creates a level of rarity that contrasts its production length of ~23 years. This example from late in production is the design in its most resolved form, with coin edged straight lug case and a masterful hand guilloché dial, its impact on the design language of Breguet’s Roth era is clear. Dating to 1973, just before the company’s acquisition and vertical integration by the Chaumet brothers and Roth, it is among the last produced under the traditional made-to-order business model of Breguet.

This Breguet Empire is in excellent, honest condition. Its silver guilloché dial and gold Breguet hands are in great condition showing only light patina commensurate with its age. The crystal shows some scratching particularly near the 1, 3, and 6 numerals. The case shows uniform light surface wear throughout its bezel, lugs, and caseback, as expected for a watch of this age. The caseback hallmark is well defined. Its Calibre Peseaux 260 is running within spec on our timing equipment. The watch comes with its original buckle and an Extract of Archive from Breguet.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.