In 1995, Audemars Piguet turned 120. To mark the occasion, AP looked into their catalogue for the most prestigious, representative piece it could build upon and landed, naturally, on the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. The result was the ref. 25810OR, produced that year in a run of just 120 examples—one...

Early Roger Dubuis, in design and finish, often feels closer to the Patek Philippe of old than much of Patek Philippe does today. It could not feel more separate from the brand's modern incarnation. This brief flash of brilliance came directly after Dubuis had spent nearly two decades at Patek,...

The original Cornes de Vache (translates as cow horn) from 1955 combined two technical innovations: Vacheron’s first water-resistant and antimagnetic chronograph. Those technical steps have been largely forgetten by most, but what has stayed front of mind was the design—featuring some of the most sculptural lugs ever on a case....

When Vacheron Constantin introduced reference 43031 in 1983, it was the first time the maison had ever put a perpetual calendar on the wrist. Conceived in the depths of the quartz crisis, it stood as a defiant statement—alongside Audemars Piguet's 5548 of 1978 and Patek Philippe's 3940 of 1985—that classical...

Patek Philippe’s first serially produced Tourbillon also happened to be a Minute Repeater. That’s not even the most astonishing thing about the ref. 3939, though, as when it was introduced in 1992 it came to market at just 33mm. The manual calibre RTO-27-PS took up the entire caseback, with little...

The reference 25668BA is Audemars Piguet's Openworked Quantième Perpétuel in yellow gold, and the most expressive of a bloodline that begins with the 5548 of 1978. Where the 5548 introduced the thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar the world had seen to revive mechanical watchmaking in Switzerland, the 25668 stripped the movement...

The 111.025 is a bit of an enigma: short-lived, widely collected, and in production for a flash. Most estimate total production well under 100 pieces. Most early Little Lange 1 references were produced before 2001–2002, and by the early 2000s the brand had halted production of most of them—these pieces...

The Vagabondage story began in casual conversation, not a sketch for once. A Parisian collector asked François-Paul Journe for something "like what A.-L. Breguet might make today," but with wandering hours—and the resulting watch, born for a charity auction, was such a hit that Journe spun a one-off into a...

Few watches encapsulate the 1970s luxury sports movement like the Vacheron Constantin 222, launched in 1977 to mark the maison's 222nd anniversary. While Gérald Genta drew the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the 222 came from a young Jorg Hysek. The range spanned the 37mm 'Jumbo' ref. 44018, this 34mm midsize...

When A. Lange & Söhne numbered its early Lange 1s, the reference told you how the watch was delivered: 101-series watches came on alligator, while 151-series watches wore an integrated precious-metal bracelet manufactured by Wellendorff. The ref. 151.021—yellow gold with champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet—is the bracelet counterpart...

Patek Philippe's 5004 is the apex of the Lemania-ébauche era—the first production Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph, a watch Philippe Stern reportedly cast as the 'spiritual successor to the 2499.' But within that already-rarefied run, the black-dialed examples occupy their own tier, and in pink gold they are one of...

The 25829BA is the Royal Oak QP Skeleton in yellow gold, the second generation of skeletonized RO QP and the first with a leap year indication. Introduced in 1996 and produced in small batches through roughly 2009, it captures a very specific moment: Switzerland emerging from the quartz crisis with...

François-Paul Journe has described the Chronomètre Souverain as his personal favorite—the watch he wanted to make before any other. It entered the collection in 2005 and quickly became the brand's anchor reference. Seven years into production, the Boutique Edition framework gave Journe a vehicle to explore more expressive dial treatments,...

Likely a piece unique, this 28SC is amongst the most restrained pieces Kari Voutilainen has made. Typically, pieces such as the Vingt-8 sported a petite seconds with its own guilloché. The 28SC embraced a degree of sporting edge via centre seconds in its place. In addition, the classic teardrop lug...

There is no numeral like a Breguet numeral, and even Patek Philippe knows it. This is not a Saatchi, but well before. To commemorate the 2006 opening of the Geneva Salon, which coincided with the end of 3970 production, four special sets each with four metals were made and offered...

The ref. 101.035 'Darth' is one of the most successful references from the brand's earlier years, emblematic of Glashütte watchmaking in every way. Penned by a team of Blümlein, Meis, and Klaus, it is imposing. It was the first standard production Lange reference to be produced with an all-black dial (including...

When the 3940 began, it started at the top. Beyer, the world’s oldest independent retailer in business for 266 years, got the first 25 examples. They even got their name on the dial, over doré, individually numbered. Numbers 1 to 15 have a German dial, while 16 to 25 are...

Well before the Land-Dweller and even before the Oysterquartz, there was this: the 1530. Known colloquially as the ‘mechanical Oysterquartz’, this is in fact an entirely mechanical wristwatch. It is not the first integrated bracelet Rolex (either the Midas, Texano, or ref. 9083 depending on your definition), but it is...