2488 Cartier Tank Asymétrique

The Asymétrique began in 1936, when Cartier unveiled a watch that deliberately broke its own rules. Known originally as the Tank Parallélogramme (also the Oblique), it was the last Tank released during Louis Cartier's lifetime. Its lozenge-shaped case tilted the dial 30 degrees clockwise, a trick born of the era's fascination with motoring: a driver could read the time with hands still on the wheel, no wrist-twisting required. This is the 1996 ref. 2488, a small run of 100 made just before the CPCP range and the first serially produced Asymétrique since the 1936 handful. And it bears some unique charms that aren’t replicated elsewhere in Cartier.

All other photos of the actual watch in question from AdM. This image comes from a prior Phillips sale. 

The 2488 differs meaningfully from later revivals. Its off-white dial carries a guilloché center, printed Arabic (decidedly not Romans, interestingly) numerals, blued-steel hands, and a discreet "Paris" signature above 6 o'clock; Cartier soon dropped the Paris signature. The CPCP-era ref. 2842 and the 2020 Privé edition (which grew to roughly 26mm x 47mm with the in-house calibre 1917 MC) are noticeably larger and omit the Paris dial, leaving the 1996 watch closest in spirit and proportion to the 1936 original. Both those later pieces also grew a third lug in the center, which has been divisive to say the least. These 100 in platinum have been the collector’s darling since.

Produced as a single numbered limited edition of 400 pieces, the run comprised 300 examples in 18k yellow gold and 100 in platinum — no pink gold was offered. Cases measured a compact 24mm x 34mm, and inside beat the ultra-thin, manually wound calibre 9P2, a movement of Piaget origin from the 1950s.

For collectors, the 2488 sits in a sweet spot: it's technically pre-CPCP, released two years before the Collection Privée Cartier Paris formally launched in 1998, yet it was precursor to that program's entire ethos. Each caseback is individually numbered within its metal's run, the platinum version being the true prize at just 100 pieces. It is, in few words, discreetly proportioned and perfect.