5270P, Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Platinum

The Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a complication first created by Patek Philippe and Patek Philippe still dominate the category today. No complication is so deeply connected to the core of Patek Philippe, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and the brand are synonymous. In 2011, this ref. 5270 took the throne previously occupied by the 5970. The 5270 was Patek Philippe's first entirely in-house designed, manufactured, and finished Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement, calibre 29‑535 PS Q, marking a significant new chapter and end of the Lemania ébauches. The 5270 is the culmination of decades of learning in movement manufacture, a showcase of Patek Philippe watchmaking and design mastery.

The very first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was released in 1941, reference 1518. This wartime innovation was not only well ahead of its time, it was built to last far beyond its time. From 1941 until today, the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, non-split, has evolved through just five main circular references. In order, they are 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, and this 5270. More importantly, the 1518 marked the start of serially produced complicated calibres at Patek Philippe. That prowess is the foundation their watchmaking has built around today. 80 years later, in 2011, the 5270 introduced the first entirely Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph the world has seen.

The 456-component calibre 29‑535 PS Q which resulted is optimized for thinness and beauty. It uses a traditional column-wheel architecture, but with a state of the art lateral clutch for aesthetic consideration. The calibre incorporates six patents to virtually eliminate any lateral clutch efficiency issues. Highlights include an optimized tooth profile, functional column wheel cap controlling drive wheel mesh depth, slotted minute cam, and synchronized clutch/blocking levers. All this effort was made purely to make the chronograph more beautiful to observe. The chronograph includes a new jumping minute counter, where as soon as the chronograph crosses 60 seconds, the minute counter jumps to 1 instead of lazily scrolling. Above the chronograph lies an integrated 182 component perpetual calendar. Truly hand finished bevels adorn every bridge, with Geneva striping, black polish, perlage, and ample depth.

This platinum example features a gold opaline salmon dial—a configuration Patek previously reserved for special order Perpetual Calendar Chronograph examples—here brought into standard production for the first time. Its Arabic numerals distinguish it from the rest of the model range. The applied numerals & indices have been blackened alongside its feuille hands, bringing a significantly more contemporary feel to these classic design elements. Made from solid gold, these dial elements are then given a rhodium treatment to create this anthracite tone. The dial of the 5270 displays a wealth of information in as clear a manner possible. The 5270 dial has evolved considerably over production, beginning with no tachymetre, then a tachymetre scale which has come to be known as 'the chin', finally landing on this simplified design with an intersecting scale at the bottom of the date track. The small apertures are for AM/PM and leap year indication. These were both inspired by the historic ref. 3450. The two calendar apertures above the Patek Philippe signature, a hallmark of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, have increased in size. This proportional increase leans into the model's most recognizable feature and accentuates it.

The 5270 is proportionally more contemporary than any Perpetual Calendar Chronograph before. Compared to its predecessor it is 1mm larger but an impressive .6mm thinner, resulting in an overall flatter appearance. The flared, stepped lug profile recalls the 2499, while adding its own new sculptural character. Additionally, its lugs are more aggressively angled downward than the 5970 case, resulting in a more sympathetic, sporting feel on wrist. It is imposing yet elegant, the sort of presence that Patek Philippe excel at like none other.

This 5270P presents in excellent overall condition. The salmon dial is flawless, showing no signs of patina or wear. The platinum case shows only extremely light signs of wear, mostly isolated to the case back. Its calibre is running well within spec on our timing equipment and all calendar and chronograph functions are operating as expected. The watch comes with its full set.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.