To most, the word Saatchi brings to mind an art gallery in London. To watch obsessives, Saatchi is a crowning adjective applied to Patek Philipps through the late neo-vintage era. On the 5070, the Saatchi very much marks the traditional king of chronographs returning to their throne. In 2015, Patek...

You only see complicated Rolex a handful of times in vintage Rolex. In essence, you get Padellone, 6062, 4413, and this: Jean Claude Killy. A complete calendar chronograph, this is as highly collected as you’ll ever see Rolex. Killy is what happens when Daytona just doesn’t push far enough, and...

The most modern machine at Haldimann is an optical microscope from the ’60s, certainly not a CNC. Haldimann’s workshop and entire operation is his home, a villa overlooking the river Aare in Thun that has a deliberately meditative vibe. His eponymous independent manufacture makes 20-30 watches per year, entirely in...

First generation Datographs have been on a tear, and perhaps none is more under represented in the zeitgeist than the 403.032. This is not the Dufourgraph, that one has a black dial. This is the argente silver, pink gold early Datograph that has no counterpart in the contemporary catalogue (there...

There are probably far fewer than 10 of these: an Audemars Piguet ref. 25661 in platinum with a mother of pearl dial. Within the long march of the QP which brought back complicated watchmaking to Switzerland (famously developed in secret), the 25661 was first to feature a display caseback—which here...

In 1983, Vacheron Constantin announced to the world their intentions to return to traditional, complicated mechanical watchmaking in the wake of the quartz crisis with the ref. 43031 Perpetual Calendar. Switzerland had been decimated, with watch industry employment falling from 90,000 to 28,000 and the number of dedicated watchmakers employed...

Audemars Piguet remained independently owned through the tumultuous 1990s and 2000s (still are), led by Georges-Henri Meylan and later Philippe Merk, where many of their peers were gobbled up in acquisitions. The former spearheaded the highly contemporary Royal Oak QP Skeleton. First came the ref. 25636, followed by this 25829....

The ref. 2396 represents a very special time in Cartier and watchmaking, before the rise of independents yet after some of the masters were born. The recent Prive Monopoussoir is equally beautiful, but the daring, somewhat whimsical Roman 12 seen form the CPCP years has not been revisited since this...

In FP Journe, two things are hyper-in-demand at the moment. One is anything made from the brass era. The second is 38mm. This Réserve de Marche (RdM) has both. The Réserve de Marche occupies a special area in the early history of François‑Paul Journe’s manufacture. Introduced in 2001, it was...

Launched in the year 2000, the Lange 1 Tourbillon was the first complication within the Lange 1 family. The Lange 1 Tourbillon began with 250 examples of this ref. 704.032 in pink gold, followed by 150 examples of ref. 704.025 in platinum. Very much a product of Gunter Blümlein and...

Simon Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans Rose is a contemporary independent watch rooted in traditional craft. Raised in Auvergne and trained in Neuchâtel, Brette worked at Chronode under Jean-François Mojon before roles at MCT and MB&F. In 2020, as independents surged at auction, he observed many smaller artisans nearing bankruptcy and created...

Vacheron Constantin’s Mercator is a time-only quite unlike any other. Released in 1994, it sought to honor the 400th anniversary of Gerardus Mercator who created map projection—the basis of all modern cartography. He was also, notably, a calligrapher and engraver: both of which inspired the overall basis for this ref....

In the world of 90s Holy Trinity chronographs, I don’t think you can make an argument against VC having the sexiest case. The 5070 is lovely, but not this voluptuous. It’s thoughtful enough to not be retro, yet a bastion of traditional watchmaking technique. It might just be the most...

If you happen to be seeking a perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph, options are limited. Most know the big three references, largely from Switzerland under Patek Philippe (5004, 5204, 5951). On the fringe, attempts have been made from Blancpain, Franck, IWC, and even Paul Picot in 2001 (there’s a deep...

The 6241 is a fundamentally interesting Daytona reference, in production for just three years from 1966 until 1969. Introduced concurrently to the 6240 with its relatively ground-breaking screw down pushers and acrylic bezel, this was effectively a 6239 updated to include an acrylic bezel for customers who preferred the classic...

The start of the Little Lange 1 has not been as widely studied as the classic 38.5mm case, but it is quite fascinating. This is the first generation model, a ref. 111.021, the yellow and gold champagne dialed start of Little Lange 1. Introduced in 1998, it aimed to bring...

In the world of Zenith Daytona, nearly all collectors concur that the most desirable out there have one thing: a floating Cosmograph line. The first of anything in vintage Rolex tends to be a bit different, not just because it was the first but because Rolex were still figuring things...

There is little in all of vintage chronographs which has as much history and value in one overlooked place as the BA 145.022-69. Better known as the first gold Speedmaster, it intersects with actual space history much more significantly than just about anything else post moon landing. The pale gold...