Yosuke Sekiguchi's Primevère has now debuted at auction, but here we have a wild Piece Unique about to follow. This one is highlyg distinct: No. 36, completed in 2026 and catalogued as a pièce unique, the ‘Interprétation du Japon’. The 39.5mm by 12mm steel case and white grand feu enamel...

Well before what we know today, Roger Dubuis produced eight years of deadly serious, nearly-classical Geneva watchmaking. Dubuis spent nine years at Longines and fourteen in Patek Philippe's complications workshop, where the 2499 and 3448 crossed his bench, left in 1980 to restore other people's masterpieces, and founded his brand...

A limited production of a classic shape Cartier always causes a stir. But this is particularly the case when only 90 examples were made, for the 90th, with a salmon dial—of the Santos Dumont. The Santos Dumont was Cartier’s first wristwatch shape and one of the very first men’s purpose-made...

This, ref. DAAG01, is a 2025-revived Daniel Roth—and one is currently auctioning for the first time ever. Daniel Roth the brand returned in 2023 under La Fabrique du Temps / Louis Vuitton and the tourbillon that reopened the brand sits deliberately close to the 1988 original. However, the man himself...

One could argue whether the Resonance or Tourbillon is FP Journe’s signature, but it’s certainly one of the pair. The Tourbillon Souverain ‘TN’—Tourbillon Nouveau — debuted in April 2004 and ran until 2018, when the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical and its calibre 1519 succeeded. It replaced the brass-movement Reference T directly,...

A ref. 110.049—better known as the Dubail—is about to head to auction for the first time in awhile, and that’s a big deal for the Lange 1. It belongs to the Soirée family, introduced in 2001, which gave the Lange 1 a mother-of-pearl dial. Most say the reference was created...

The most modern machine at Haldimann is an optical microscope from the ’60s, certainly not a CNC. Haldimann’s workshop and entire operation is his home, a villa overlooking the river Aare in Thun that has a deliberately meditative vibe. His eponymous independent manufacture makes 20-30 watches per year, entirely in...

The original Cornes de Vache (translates as cow horn) from 1955 combined two technical innovations: Vacheron’s first water-resistant and antimagnetic chronograph. Those technical steps have been largely forgetten by most, but what has stayed front of mind was the design—featuring some of the most sculptural lugs ever on a case....

The 111.025 is a bit of an enigma: short-lived, widely collected, and in production for a flash. Most estimate total production well under 100 pieces. Most early Little Lange 1 references were produced before 2001–2002, and by the early 2000s the brand had halted production of most of them—these pieces...

The Vagabondage story began in casual conversation, not a sketch for once. A Parisian collector asked François-Paul Journe for something "like what A.-L. Breguet might make today," but with wandering hours—and the resulting watch, born for a charity auction, was such a hit that Journe spun a one-off into a...

When A. Lange & Söhne numbered its early Lange 1s, the reference told you how the watch was delivered: 101-series watches came on alligator, while 151-series watches wore an integrated precious-metal bracelet manufactured by Wellendorff. The ref. 151.021—yellow gold with champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet—is the bracelet counterpart...

Patek Philippe's 5004 is the apex of the Lemania-ébauche era—the first production Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph, a watch Philippe Stern reportedly cast as the 'spiritual successor to the 2499.' But within that already-rarefied run, the black-dialed examples occupy their own tier, and in pink gold they are one of...

François-Paul Journe has described the Chronomètre Souverain as his personal favorite—the watch he wanted to make before any other. It entered the collection in 2005 and quickly became the brand's anchor reference. Seven years into production, the Boutique Edition framework gave Journe a vehicle to explore more expressive dial treatments,...

Likely a piece unique, this 28SC is amongst the most restrained pieces Kari Voutilainen has made. Typically, pieces such as the Vingt-8 sported a petite seconds with its own guilloché. The 28SC embraced a degree of sporting edge via centre seconds in its place. In addition, the classic teardrop lug...

The ref. 101.035 'Darth' is one of the most successful references from the brand's earlier years, emblematic of Glashütte watchmaking in every way. Penned by a team of Blümlein, Meis, and Klaus, it is imposing. It was the first standard production Lange reference to be produced with an all-black dial (including...

This is a Lange 1A, that’s not a typo. This is the very first limited production Lange, ref. 112.021 made in 100 examples in 1998. It sports a name which nods toward what was then a new manufacture building named 1A. It was also the very first Lange to sport...

This is a superwatch both physically and in terms of complications. Very few sports watches can split seconds. FP Journe introduced the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante in 2018, building off an experimental Split Seconds project for Only Watch which hammered at 1.15M CHF. By popular demand, FP Journe refined that calibre...

This is a piece unique black dial Lange 1 Tourbillon, about as beautiful and special a Lange 1 Tourbillon as has ever been made. It first sold in 2018 at Dr. Crott, then 119K EUR. This upcoming auction season, it’s back and ready to set a new record. This was...