Developed just after the initial World Timers by Louis Cottier, the ref. 2597 is a damn cool ‘Travel Time’ from 1956, the very start of the jet age. The reference can be thought of as a 570 Calatrava with a little je ne sais quoi complication, or a gentleman’s GMT-Master. The...

This is a 18038, but unlike most 18038 it’s a lapis dial. Absent any indices, with apertures framed in yellow gold, this is one of the ultimate yellow gold Day-Date specs. Lapis was and remains one of the most notoriously difficult materials to machine. There is a widely stated figure...

Well before the 222, Overseas, or even Nautilus, there was this. It’s called the Royal Chronometer, but better known by ref. 2215. Introduced in 1975, it was replaced by the 222 just 2 years later in 1977.  Perhaps Genta spent less time looking at portholes and more time referencing the...

Silver print, sigma, and steel bezel is a great recipe for a subtle four-digit Daytona. This is one of the great mid-70s minimal 6265 looks. In vintage Rolex, it’s usually not as much about the dial as it is condition and life it has lived. This one has all of...

While the 812 Aquatimer is ultimately a dive watch, IWC’s first, it is more importantly the most elegant and refined dial design to ever be cased with two crowns and a Piquerez Super Compressor case. In 1967, IWC decided to take on the Submariner with this. In typically teutonic fashion,...

This Primevère is the first act from Japanese-born, Swiss-based independent Yosuke Sekiguchi. A name most won’t be familiar with, Sekiguchi moved to France at 23 then Switzerland, studying at La Joux-Perret then Claret. In 2020, he stepped out on his own with this. He sees most Japanese watchmaking as ‘too...

Introduced in 96 and discontinued in 06, this is not a 3940—which might be its defining feature. But it is a full-on 240 Q Perpetual Calendar, nothing annual about it. It’s the ref. 5039, which one could choose to think of as a 3940 that was allowed to lean full...

Where you see feuille hands on a 3970, you know you’re talking early series and immensely collected watches today. But this isn’t a 3970. It’s a 3971, a reference created before the standardization of selling both a solid and sapphire caseback with each 3970. The 3971 was a screwdown, sapphire-backed,...

Régence in French literally translates to Regency, but loosely defines the period when France was governed by Philippe II. The Regency period predates Rococco and defines and entire genre of art. In Journe collecting circles, however, it means something entirely different. Régence models, or dials more aptly, are the jet-fuel...

If Ferdinand Berthoud doesn’t ring a bell, here’s what you need to know in an instant download. Think high independent watchmaking underwritten by Chopard, well above LUC. FB is based in marine chronometry roots, re-interpreted for the wristwatch, named after one of the most accomplished, ingenius, and inventive watchmakers of...

Audemars Piguet turned 125 in 2000, and its Japanese market received a small group of watches made for the occasion. Alongside the simpler Edward Piguet ref. 15015 and Jules Audemars ref. 15056 came reference 25910BC, an Edward Piguet full calendar in 18k white gold, its caseback engraved “125 Years” and...

What can one say about the Simplicity that hasn’t already been written? If we all had to choose just one independent watchmaker to represent the very best of traditional Swiss watchmaking and technique, Mr. Dufour might have to be it. The roots of this calibre run all the way back...

This is an extremely rare, likely specially ordered 3450J. It’s luminous, or at least it was, in tritium: hands and dial. And if we’re discussing greatly overlook complicated Patek Philippe, the 3450 is definitely in that mix. The 3450 could be described as transitional, launched in 1981 and taking over...

This is easily the strangest, yet most significant watch you could randomly stumble across on Chrono24 right now. It’s the 5950R-010, a small run of 15 pieces which are all extremely sought after. Its calibre is a direct descendant of the CHR 27-525 PS in ref. 5959, introduced in 2010...

Production of the Langematik Perpetual is no more, removed from the catalogue in 2024. And it’s really gone for this Wellendorff bracelet 310.225, as Lange Wellendorff bracelets are also no more. The 310.225 is probably not a reference that will ring any bells. It’s a Langematik Perpetual. This Lange QP is...

There may never be a Patek Philippe this beautiful again. To those paying close attention, this era (Philippe Stern’s) is really having a moment. 3940, 3970, and 5004: they may as well be their own ‘holy trinity’ within the brand and there really is a magic about each that is...

Holland & Holland make guns. They have since 1835. One might think the French attitude of FP Journe might mean that the brand is above collaborations, but in the earlier days this was certainly not the case. This is the Chronomètre Holland & Holland, notably not a Souverain. You might...

The red text above Omega on this Constellation reads ‘Kim Il-Sung’. Yes, really, and it was printed by Omega. This is one of the most bizarre histories to tell, one which very much reflects just how differently Swiss companies operated in the mid-70s (as well as how desperate they were...