Gübelin Dial 2597/1 Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time, Pink Gold

Developed just after the initial World Timers by Louis Cottier, the ref. 2597 is a damn cool ‘Travel Time’ from 1956, the very start of the jet age. The reference can be thought of as a 570 Calatrava with a little je ne sais quoi complication, or a gentleman’s GMT-Master. The watch featured, effectively, an early iteration of a Travel Time: its wearer could push one of two buttons on the case side to advance or retard the hour hand incrementally. This was a first. Patek patented this solution and it’s been their default travel solution since. This is arguably the world’s most elegant, enameled signature travel companion and one rarely seen, particularly here in pink gold.

The 2597 was made in two series. The series one, ref. 2597, is a three-hand, advance-able Travel Time. The second series, this ref. 2597/1, incorporated a fourth ‘travel time’ hand to advance or retard the hour, which jumped out from below the third ‘home time’ hour hand. The four-hand watches are somewhat more collected. Patek offered its retailers a kit to upgrade three-hand watches to four in period also. The reference changed movements halfway through production as well, from the calibre 12-400 show in this early example to a 27-400. Earlier dials had engraved enamel for all but quarters, where latter dials moved to the easier to manufacture all-applied dial furniture. There’s a lot to study; there’s a lot to adore.

This example features a Gübelin line, but not just that. It includes papers from 1980 from Gübelin noting purchase and that, although the model was no longer made by time of sale, they had one left in pink gold which would cost its new owner 3,590 CHF. Its been in that same collection since 1980 and now comes to auction in HK. The caseback shows no service marks, which is wild. The watch was made in 1961, but sold in 1980, which shows just how sales were toward the second half of production. Today, we recognize it for what it is. Likely the most beautiful travel watch ever made. 

This example appears to be a complete standout. It's described as most likely unpolished and for once I agree. The light spotting on the dial is totally normal. It is a totally beauty. It comes as part of Phillips upcoming HK sale.