Urban Jürgensen

Reference 2, Yellow Gold

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$272,000.00
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A Reference 2, one of 122 examples made in yellow gold (172 examples across all metals). Urban Jürgensen's first complicated calendar, the Reference 2 established several principles that would define the Pratt-Baumberger years. Its stepped-bezel, two-body 38mm case had a more contemporary soldered-teardrop lug profile, the Observatoire handset was introduced, as well as reworked Frédéric Piguet ébauches. Each dial took roughly a week to produce, manually turned with a level of skill few have rivaled. The Reference 2 defined the revival of Urban Jürgensen and set an archetype for some of the most beautiful wristwatches of the 1990s—still influencing the brand's direction under the Rosenfields with Voutilainen today. 

Worth Reading

The Reference 2 arrived in 1986 as the definitive complication—a perpetual calendar—of the reborn Pratt-Baumberger Urban Jürgensen era. Over 7 years, 172 examples were made. 122 were made across pink, yellow, and white gold though exact production in each alloy is unknown. More than any other work, the Reference 2 defined what the revived Urban Jürgensen would go on to create. 

Urban Jürgensen's modern chapter begins with a name nobody was using. The Copenhagen house traces to watchmaker Jürgen Jürgensen's 1773 partnership and his son Urban (1776–1830), who trained under Breguet and Arnold, but by the 1970s the name was dormant. Peter Baumberger, a Swiss dealer, acquired the rights in 1979 and completed the purchase of the company in 1985, then hired the English watchmaker and noted technical genius Derek Pratt as technical director. Pratt and Baumberger made this bet on Urban Jürgensen at the peak of the quartz crisis, buying old equipment as many Swiss manufactures left mechanical, manual watchmaking entirely.  

The Reference 2 departed in several meaningful ways from the Reference 1. Its stepped-bezel, two-body 38mm case had a more contemporary soldered-teardrop lug profile, the Observatoire handset was introduced, and thoroughly reworked Frédéric Piguet ébauches were introduced.  

Perhaps more importantly, the masterful dial work did not change—executed each by Pratt in the early years. Each dial took Pratt roughly a week—with no accommodation to variance or faults. Later in production, Pratt taught Baumberger dial-making technique as well. In 1996 Voutilainen began at Urban Jürgensen and took over from Pratt. Cut from solid silver, the dial's clous de Paris center, basketweave subdials, and brushed chapter ring were engine-turned by hand, each line a single stroke on a manually operated machine; one lapse scraps the blank. 

The movement is a Frédéric Piguet calibre 71, 2.4mm thick and 35 jewels, carrying a Lemania-developed perpetual calendar module Baumberger secured exclusively which landed its displays with immense symmetry. Well beyond ébauche standard, it was finished with Geneva stripes, perlage, and hand anglage, and fitted with a 21k gold rotor. 

The Reference 2 set a foundation that all following Urban Jürgensen has built upon, including the Nokia Investors, Voutilainen, and Rosenfield years. It established the perpetual calendar and svelte proportions as of paramount importance to the brand. Yet, all historic aspects pale in comparison to the quality of the work from this era.

Condition

This Reference 2 presents in excellent overall condition. While it has some signs of wear, with light hairline scratches uniformly distributed throughout the case and a few heavier scratches, its geometry is full and original The edges and hallmarks are extremely sharp with no signs of rounding. The dial is exceptionally well preserved. The calibre FP71 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. This example comes with inner and outer boxes, operating manual, yellow gold pin buckle, and Strap.

Specifications

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.

  • Brand: Urban Jürgensen
  • Model: Reference 2
  • Reference: 2
  • Size: 38
  • Year: c. 2000
  • Case Material: Yellow Gold
  • Movement: Automatic Calibre FP71
  • Scope: Watch and Box (Inner & Outer Boxes, Yellow Gold Pin Buckle, Strap)