Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.1

If Ferdinand Berthoud doesn’t ring a bell, here’s what you need to know in an instant download. Think high independent watchmaking underwritten by Chopard, well above LUC. FB is based in marine chronometry roots, re-interpreted for the wristwatch, named after one of the most accomplished, ingenius, and inventive watchmakers of the 18th century. This FB 2RE.1 manages to look entirely novel and quite classical simultaneously, yet is decidedly on the cutting technical edge with a 1,200 component fusée and chain, reuleaux triangle remontoire calibre. Yes, you read that right.

Inside, the FB-RE.FC calibre might be one of the most uncompromising movements produced this century. A fusée-and-chain transmission, remontoir d’égalité, and massive 18,000 vph balance combine to achieve constant force and amplitude, but more than that, they represent a philosophy. Every component is hand-finished to a degree that borders on madness—sharp inner angles, black-polished steel, mirror-beveled bridges, and perfectly circular-grained wheels. The entire architecture feels like it was designed by someone who never learned the meaning of “good enough.” And perhaps that’s the point: Ferdinand Berthoud’s modern incarnation, under Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, isn’t trying to make another fine watch. It’s trying to make the finest watch. It was a shoe in for the chronometry prize at GPHG in 2020, you can see why.

This is under a classic two-layer vitreous enamel dial where the center is stepped down. The 44mm is industrial, with long lugs that have a small hooded section. All of this is true quality, and while technically is a family member with Chopard, it all feels very independent. Berthoud’s early original work inspired the likes of Journe and many others, as well as keeping many on the ocean safe.. Having that name back making things like this today is great for everyone—particularly when it is so innovative and focused on new excellent watchmaking.

A separate example to the featured watch of this find, included to show the calibre, courtesy of Monochrome Watches

This example is case number 1 of 10 in white gold, which is great. Everyone wants case number 1. It comes with its full set and certificate. The watch comes by way of new auction house Marteau & Co and their first auction, focused heavily in independents.