Philippe Dufour Simplicity

What can one say about the Simplicity that hasn’t already been written? If we all had to choose just one independent watchmaker to represent the very best of traditional Swiss watchmaking and technique, Mr. Dufour might have to be it. The roots of this calibre run all the way back to a Valjoux VZSS although it’s been given so many hours of human attention that it resembles something closer to religion than a vintage AP time-only. What might not be visible from afar is that the story and allure of the Simplicity is far longer reaching than most independents, far more consequential for the category. This is the most classic variant, 37mm in platinum, and there hasn’t been a great one to appear on market for a bit—now there is.

Back in 2000, the Simplicity debuted at Basel. Dufour’s name had already been established via the Duality and more pertinently Grand et Petite Sonnerie calibre. The prototype was kept by Shellman, Japanese retailer, and the model was popularized in Japan. Dufour made a dozen yearly in these early times often sold to Japan. Shellman (Yoshi Isogai) sold the majority. The initial run was just over 220 examples before 2014. By the second half of the 2000s, word spread though pieces stayed in collections. From a retail originally near 40K USD, the first auction in 2016 hit 256k. The precedent was set, this was was not just scarce but desirable and important. That result was quickly duplicated by two lots selling near there at Phillips. From a quite first two decades, that splash meant everyone wanted one. And the next major milestone hit in 2020, when #00/20 hit 1.36M CHF at auction. Values have cooled a bit since then.

That insane demand brought it back into small production, allocated through Claude Sfeir, which continues today. At its core, it is still a humble 37 or 34mm three-hander which preserves Swiss métiers d’art and celebrates independence. Each example is said by Dufour to have required 2000-2500 hours of work by a human from start to finish. Reportedly there are 300 hours in finishing work alone. While the Simplicity market is its own unusual beast, the quality and care which has gone into each example is beyond reproach. Thus, if any market can be said to have a basis in value, this is the right corner of the market to have immense value attracted to it after all.

This example is platinum at 37mm, with a the classic white Metaled dial. Arguably, this is the Simplicity's best aesthetic. It hails from its original owner with the full works.