'Specially Made for Asprey' 49005 Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Prior to last week, if you had told me this watch existed, I wouldn’t have believed you. I thought I knew all dial configurations of VC’s 90s Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970-fighter, the ref. 49005. It turns out, there are some that haven’t been seen yet. This caseback has an engraving reading ‘Specially made for Asprey’. Which explains why it’s the only 49005 I’ve ever seen with a smooth black dial in a platinum case. As a rule, prior, black dials were always guilloché and always in pink gold cases. That was the special one. Well, no, it turns out there’s always something more special out there.

In 1992, Vacheron Constantin launched what they called the 7 marvels: 7 technically or artistically exceptional new efforts. One of them was this ref. 49005, Vacheron’s first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and answer to the 3970. It sold slowly and ceased to exist by the year 2000. The calibre is an amalgamation of the Frederic Piguet calibre 1185 column-wheel chronograph with VC’s own calendar works. Yet, the movement was just 7.1mm thin at a total case height of 12mm. It also means you get the same beautifully detailed four-year leap indication at the 12 subdial as the 43031, but with stacked-hand calendar functions at 9 and stacked chronograph functions at 3. Even better, the moonphase disc is still the 43031’s solid lapis wheel with a mirror yellow gold moon, which is perfection. At 38 with classic stepped bezel and straight lugs, it’s a touch more masculine than the 3970’s 36mm but not all the way to a 5970’s 40mm.

Production numbers are pretty concretely estimated these days: around 800 made in total. 500 are in pink gold, 300 in platinum. Dials could be white, salmon, or black. But that last one, black, was always seen guilloché and stood along the salmon guilloché as the most desirable of the bunch. Well, now we know it gets crazier. This one just showed up at Sothebys with a smooth black dial. And that’s not the most signficiant thing in the watch world, but it is rather interesting. And that’s all we promise. Plus, the 49005 is a rad reference that should be in the spotlight more often. We’re only too happy to oblige here, and it’s not just because 90s nostalgia is at peak.

This example, aside from the dial and case metal combination, appears great. The case is full, with the hallmarks and serial you always want to see preserved present. There is no set, so the full history of this piece remains somewhat opaque. I'd include better photos if we had them, but you get what you get with auction.