44018 Vacheron Constantin 222 Jumbo

Still today, there is nothing quite like the original 222. This is the original, vintage ref. 44018 222 ‘Jumbo’ in steel. Vacheron Constantin’s answer to the Royal Oak and Nautilus arrived in 1977 with the 222, created to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. The third and final member of the so-called holy trinity to enter the luxury sports category, it was not designed by Gérald Genta but by a young Jörg Hysek. His hexagonal, serrated design language was a clear departure from Vacheron’s classical dress watch lineage and equally distant from porthole-inspired Genta influence. In every respect, the 222 represented Vacheron’s first true leap into the unknown.

Photography for this Find comes courtesy of a prior sale by Phillips.

The 222 line was produced in two case sizes: this 37.5mm ref. 44018 “Jumbo” and the 34.5mm mid-size ref. 46003. Sales were slow, and production ceased in 1984 after just eight years. Fewer than 500 steel Jumbos were made, fewer than 150 in yellow gold, and fewer than 100 in bimetal, making the steel 44018 by far the rarest of the original integrated sports watches from the era.

Most steel Jumbos feature a cold grey-blue dial, though subtle variants exist, ranging from mid-grey to dark blue depending on light. The dial is lightly grained, tritium, and signed “Swiss” only. Unlike the mid-size, the Jumbo has no seconds hand. All examples use a monobloc case with a serrated bezel and Maltese cross stamped below 5 o’clock. The bracelet and clasp were made by Gay Frères, and the retro “222” caseback font remains one of the model’s most defining details. At just 7.2mm thick, the 44018 houses calibre 1121, the JLC 920 ébauche also used by Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Featuring a 21k gold rotor, ceramic ball bearings, and a Gyromax balance, it remains a technically exceptional movement.

Born in the shadow of the quartz crisis, the 222 marked a rare moment of revolution over evolution for Vacheron Constantin. At least ten times rarer than the Royal Oak 5402 or Nautilus 3700, it remains polarizing, industrial, and strikingly avant-garde even today. Nearly five decades on, it stands as the most experimental—and most collectible—vintage Vacheron Constantin.

The example offered by Rattrapante today, a newer retailer in Switzerland. Is case is fantastic, dial as well. From what's visible, it's a total winner. The watch is on Chrono24 currently. Comparably excellent example to the one pictured here.