Chronomètre Bleu, Tantalum

Introduced in 2009, the Chronomètre Bleu stands apart from most of FP Journe’s work. Its tantalum case does not conform to usual standards in size or material: It is 39mm in place of 38mm or 40mm. It also is storm-grey tantalum in place of precious metal. Where François-Paul built his name in complication, this is a restrained time-only wristwatch. It was conceived out of necessity, not aspiration. Yet, in contemporary collecting the Chronomètre Bleu has become celebrated as the most distilled example of Francois-Paul's watchmaking.

This simpler, three-hand design was a reaction to the 2008 financial crisis, where Francois-Paul required a more approachable model to attract any sales. This forced a creative approach, using unique materials in a uniquely minimal model. What was merely intended to sustain the brand has since instead become its flagship.

This was in its time one of the most over-engineered three-hand watches from any manufacture. Calibre 1304, hewn almost entirely from pink gold, is based on dual mainspring barrels optimized for even torque. The Chronomètre Bleu has a unique finish compared to everything else in the catalogue, with a base plate grain d’orge guilloché. Bridges are striped and chamfered beautifully, with much negative space and a sense of openness reminiscent of old pocket watches. This is helped by clever engineering, where the gear train that links the balance to the mainspring barrels run hidden under the dial as opposed to the conventional path across the caseback. The lack of visible wheels makes its free sprung balance appear self-driven.

Tantalum was previously foreign to FP Journe, a notoriously difficult-to-machine (and finish) material. However, the result is a metal considerably more resistant to wear and corrosion; tantalum is roughly twice as hard as gold and twice as strong as steel. Machining this case and particularly the crown is said to have required great trial and error. Despite the relatively complex calibre, the case measures an elegant 8.6mm thin. 

Yet, the Chronomètre Bleu is made by its dial, built up from multiple layers of hand-polished blue lacquer with an immense failure rate. The vividness of these thick coats can change from near black to chrome blue under direct sun, with numerals reflecting layers downward. Further, it breaks from traditional Journe austerity with a petite seconds at 7:30, where the numerals nearest to its petite seconds gracefully shrink down to provide visual balance. This allows the numerals to be printed full and not cut off around the seconds opening, as many others do, a rare touch of playfulness from François-Paul. 

In the decade following its story, the Chronomètre Bleu has become renowned as the purest FP Journe offering. At the time production ceased, most waitlists were around 8 years long. The Chronomètre Bleu proves that a restrained offering needn't sacrifice on craftsmanship or innovation. Despite a more approachable value, the Chronomètre Bleu offered one of the most beautiful dials the brands has ever made, in its own section of the catalogue. It is one of very few independent watchmaker's efforts which can truly be said to have become a modern classic already.

This Chronomètre Bleu presents in great overall condition. The case shows superficial signs of wear, light only and commensurate with occasional use. There is a very light mark on the outer edge of the lower right lug, visible in photos. Its dial remains flawless. Its calibre 1304 is running well in specification on our timing equipment with healthy amplitude. It comes with its original full set and purchase invoice.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.