812 AD IWC Aquatimer

While the 812 Aquatimer is ultimately a dive watch, IWC’s first, it is more importantly the most elegant and refined dial design to ever be cased with two crowns and a Piquerez Super Compressor case. In 1967, IWC decided to take on the Submariner with this. In typically teutonic fashion, the design was pure Bauhaus: form was to follow function. The 812 was never a vast commercial success and production remained small. Over all 25 years of production, it is estimated than IWC made fewer than 2,000 examples. Of that, this contrasting tuxedo dial is one of the best variants.

The 812 began with the calibre 8541 from the Ingenieur with a Pellaton winding system, which uses a cam rather than direct gearing between the rotor and barrel; this not only isolates it from shock but is more mechanically efficient. The dial is designed purely for legbility. Its applied luminous markers are the same width as the extra-wide luminous baton hands, including a ‘paddle’ seconds hand. The rotating bezel is luminous through subdivisions of the first 15 minutes. You'll find them with both these applied and (early) longhand-only IWC signatures, a mix of black & white dial and/or bezel, and Gay Freres bracelets. 

These days, the dive watch is very concretely associated with an external bezel. The 812 imagined a different blueprint and went about things in a very considered way, incorporating an entirely new and superior winding system. Despite its reserved and practical approach, it is a watch that somehow is overflowing with character and charm in contemporary times. IWC envisioned the 812 as a Submariner-killer. That didn’t really happen. Instead, it is today a very thoroughly thought through and beautiful dive watch which exists only in relatively small numbers. A perfect dive watch equally for those who deeply know their IWC history or who have an eye for super restrained, utilitarian design.

This example has a beautiful case with a rather unusual tritium tone that's described as warm sand and that's remarkably accurate. It looks fantastic and quite honest. It comes with a period correct Gay Freres bracelet as well. It comes from a well-regarded German retailer.