An Impossibly Beautiful Vetta Cronografo Ermetico Impermeable
Not many designs from 1940 feel at home today. Certainly, few have aged as gracefully as the humble multi-scale chronograph. This is particularly true of this Italian Valjoux-based clamshell. Vetta was the Italian-branded partner of Wyler’s European arm. Small alterations were made to the Wyler designs, such as the flair of colorful details this example…
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Enicar Sherpa Superdive Compressor
Superdive is a good name. 812 Superfast is also a good name. I often think to myself the adjectives which are most child-like and simplistic are best. Why do we say nephrologist and not kidney doctor? Latin-obsessed exclusionary fuckery. I digress. This oversized 1960s Enicar is, in fact, a super diver. Enicar was a long…
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Rolex 3525 ‘Barilotto’ in Pink Gold & Steel with Champagne Dial
Impossibly conspicuous wristwatches and impossibly tasteful wristwatches are often mutually exclusive categories. An RM-030 with its declutchable rotor mechanism is very conspicuous and very innovative. But it most certainly is not tasteful. In fact, I’ve heard various RMs described as ‘Invacta for the 1%’. I may or may not agree. Likewise, the recent Girard Perregaux…
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Longines 7855-1 in a Tropical Pink
Having recently featured the incredibly debonaire pink-on-pink 96R Calatrava recently, I thought I’d offer a more attainable alternative. More attainable, but no less unique. In fact, due to the incredible ageing this example wears, it may be more unique. Longines may be most associated with horse racing and the Kentucky Derby today, but they were…
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Breguet 3230 in Rose Gold
This is perhaps reductive, but I tend to view any Lemania 2310-based watch as a movement wearing a watch. Let me elaborate. Usually, I evaluate a watch at its ability to accomplish its given purpose. I then assess how well a manufacture’s design of movement suits that task. But where the Lemania 2310 is concerned,…
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Universal Genève Unisonic 852100
The word quartz might be enough to make one skip to the next article. I understand that. If that’s you, move along. However, if you’re seeking a complete understanding of watchmaking, you cannot ignore the bear caged in the corner. Quartz was and is significant to the history of wristwatches. And, due to the general…
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Grand Seiko SBGY003 Spring Drive
I am a massive fan of Rob Reiner’s Spinal Tap mockumentary. I bring this up for one reason: if you were to turn up a Seiko Presage Cocktail Timer to 11, this would be the result. The 2019 SBGY003 features one of the brand’s greatest dial textures, a fresh take on the radial folds of…
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Vacheron Constantin 4241 Triple Calendar
Vacheron Constantin is not only the oldest member of the holy trinity, they also have the most bizarre lugs. Without question, I have not seen any serious mainstream watchmaker experiment with lug designs to the extent that Vacheron have previously. Cornes de Vache teardrop lugs? Check. 222 hexagonally integrated lugs? Check. 1940s triple calendar hooded-bar…
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Lip Genève Alarme 42992
If you can picture a Lapis Lazuli Memovox on acid, you’re already late. Lip Genève created it in 1972. Alarm watches are a deep rabbit hole and one that I’ve been descending further and further this year. There’s the abundance of Memovoxes, a few Deep Seas, and even that recent Jenny. But all of those…
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Rare Double Pink Patek Philippe 96R Calatrava
What we have here is a fresh twist on a classic drink. Patek’s Calatrava began with the 1932 reference 96 and has been dress watch royalty ever since. The Calatrava appeals for many reasons. The design is arguably their most timeless, with no distracting bells or whistles. The 96 was introduced by brothers Jean and…
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