Lemania Royal Navy Series 3 Military Chronograph
Outside of the standard Rolex, Tudor, and Zenith, Lemania’s single pusher chronograph has to be considered amongst the most elegant military designs. Lemania created chronographs for Sweden, South Africa, and the UK. Powered by the simple Lemania cal 2220, the chronograph has register functions encoded entirely to the single pusher. The simple design is quite…
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Deep Dive: Panerai 3646 D/E
Modern Panerai gets a hard time from many enthusiasts. Some have called them ‘the new Hublot.’ Others have coined the motto ‘rebranding the Luminor since 1990.’ A fraction of that criticism is deserved, while the larger ratio is not. However, even the most cynical collector cannot deny the depth of history this Italian mark holds….
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Symphony in Silicon: Patek Philippe 5550P-001 Advanced Research
This marvel of engineering is one historically significant piece of unobtanium from the great Patek. Never one to rest on laurels, Patek Philippe has been leading the way in mechanical watchmaking innovation for some time. In 2011, their ‘Advanced Research’ division (roughly 70 R&D employees who enjoy an experiment) created the first entirely silicon escapement….
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Ahead of its Time: IWC Aquatimer 812 AD
The early Aquatimer 812 AD is a thing of austere beauty, very unlike the shouty models of today. They may easily be mistaken for other (lesser) super compressors, but make no mistake: this is one serious bit of kit. For their first ever diver, IWC utilized the famous cal 8541 with Pellaton winding system from its Ingenieur…
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Rolex 5504 Air King with 3-6-9 Explorer Dial
At first glance, this Air King may be very easily mistaken for its 1016 counterpart. However, the dial markings are not quite Explorer. Equally, the well-aged indices are raised. Its 36mm case was used for both models, though some 5504s produced with 1016 Explorer-styled dials blur this line. The 1530 movement also varies from the…
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Broad-Arrow Omega 2913 Seamaster 300
After Omega reissued 60th anniversary pieces last year, its trilogy series has been flooding the watch media. As a result, the 2913 Seamaster has received considerably greater attention recently, with today’s market eating up any examples in decent condition very quickly. This makes Meertz’s 1958 CK2913 here quite a rarity. This broad-arrow is the most…
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Universal Genéve Tri-Compax 881101/01 “Eric Clapton” at No Reserve
After the Compur and Aero-Compax, UG needed a chronograph to win public perception in the post-war luxury market. They introduced this Tri-Compax and it immediately won favor across the market. Tri was used to designate the three complications on feature: a moon-phase, chronograph, and calendar. It did so well in the market as to capture…
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The Lemania Heuer 510.403 Silverstone
Heuer’s original TV-case Silverstone is an icon of 1970s race-timing and Heuer itself. Often seen on the wrist of Lauda’s F1 team, it has a certain magnetic appeal. Often forgotten, however, is the reference that design culminated in. In 1983, Heuer utilized Lemania’s 5100/5012 workhorse to create this, the 510.403 Silverstone. It was never featured in…
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The Ming 17.01
Wait-who, what? No it is not a Chronometré grey. Ming started last year as a passion project from one watch photographer. The obsessive detail that shined through Ming Thein’s watch photography has manifest itself here as well. Ming is a very different new brand, demonstrating wisdom beyond their years. A simple, relatively small 38mm, titanium…
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An Automotive Gem: Heuer 2446 Autavia
The snap-back generation of 2446, sometimes confusingly called ‘Heuer’s Submariner’, is a base for much of the brand’s current appeal. The moniker exists not for the use of Valjoux’s 72, but the iconic status today. Heuer’s earliest screw-back Autavias are more collectible, but these snap/compressor variations are no less interesting. These were the models often…
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