The Second Series 3970 occupies and entirely different mindshare than but five years ago. It is, quite obviously, ascending to become seriously collected, desired, and studied. But the platinum, well, it’s been described aptly by Ben Clymer as a, ‘kind of mini platinum 2499’. And he’s right, except there’s nothing...

Souscription is often associated with Resonance and Tourbillon, but it was extended into the early days of the Octa range equally. In fact, they’re some of the most subtly excellent collector’s Journes made. After the success of first two models, Journe launched the Octa platform to prove that an automatic...

Antimagnetic or scientist’s watches are a long overlooked, often beautiful collecting category. A trend during the mid-century, when science was the way forward, these were usually a halfway-stop between a dress/three-handed and tool watch aesthetic. Patek Philippe had the Amag, Rolex had the Milgauss, Omega had the Railmaster. Yet, one...

In 1983, Vacheron Constantin announced to the world their intentions to return to traditional, complicated mechanical watchmaking in the wake of the quartz crisis with the ref. 43031 Perpetual Calendar. Switzerland had been decimated, with watch industry employment falling from 90,000 to 28,000 and the number of dedicated watchmakers employed...

To most, the word Saatchi brings to mind an art gallery in London or a man named Charles. To watch obsessives, Saatchi is a crowning adjective applied to Patek Philipps through the neo-vintage era. On the 5070, the Saatchi very much marks the traditional king of chronographs returning to their...

The transitional 16550 marked the start of the Explorer II as a dual-time zone watch. In one instant, the hour hand was able to jump and the GMT-Master II had a credible rival. Further, it also introduced a massive fault we’ve all come to adore: the cream dial. Early 16550s...