Tank Louis, NSO, Eastern Arabic Numerals, Pink Gold

Cartier’s NSO program, now ceased, created some of the most daring and unusual bespoke variants the brand has known. While far from standard, this Tank Louis appears as if it might have been in the catalogue at a Middle Eastern boutique as standard. This example features blue Eastern Arabic numerals on a grained dial, Breguet hands, and a pink gold case. This specification has not been seen prior to coming to the market here today. This Tank Louis was not aimed to make a loud statement, but simply to tell the time spectacularly with a flavor of a certain place and culture. 

The Tank Louis, released in 1922, provided refinements to the Tank Normale design that led it to significantly greater prominence. The Normale’s somewhat brutish flat brancards with squared edges were replaced with rounded ones and a rectangular rather than square dial, simple modifications providing a more appealing and elegant aesthetic. The watches were produced in precious metals only, typically adorned with a blue sapphire cabochon on the crown. Traditional Tank Louis dials feature Roman numerals with chemin de fer (railway) minutes track and blued steel sword hands. The design was so successful that it has become synonymous with the brand. Numerous special editions have been produced but the design has remained relatively unaltered for over a century. It is immediately recognizable and widely adored well beyond watch collecting circles.

Two years in the making, this Tank aimed to preserve the subtlety inherent in the Tank Louis, but with small updates. The dial looks surprisingly contemporary, largely due to the absence of the chemin de fer. The blue numerals contrast the pink gold case in a lovely manner, echoed in the cabochon. The mid-century Breguet handset balances this updated with a heavy does of traditional aesthetic. 

This NSO project remains respectful to the Tank Louis while updating it to a contemporary Middle Eastern aesthetic. While many NSO projects have character, this project walks a perfect balance between personality and restraint. There may be no more balanced Tank Louis with a sense of place inherent to its design. 

This NSO Tank Louis presents in great overall condition. Its case shows some hairline scratches commensurate with patterned careful wearing. The dial and hands show no patina or wear. The watch is running well within specification on our timing equipment. It comes with its full set including original box and papers, and original pink gold clasp.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.