Salmon Dial NSO Cartier Crash
If ever a special order Cartier client got it right, this salmon white gold NSO Crash is it. This is traditionally Swiss aesthetic spice on a deeply French dish in London. If you love watches, I promise that should make sense. The salmon dial craze of 2020 has come and past. As someone who quite…
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Onyx Dial 16018 Rolex Datejust
Onyx might not look like this in nature, but it does in Datejust. And that’s enough. Stone dials have had a rough time of late, but the OGs are as index-less and lovely as they’ve ever been. Normally, I would always slightly preference a Day-Date, everything else being equal. But in stone dials, Datejusts really…
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2471 Omega Cosmic Complete Calendar Moonphase
In 1947, this was the height of the Omega catalogue. Man hadn’t stepped on the moon, limited editions hadn’t been invented, and Ploprof was still just what you said when you sneezed. But post-war economic buzz was strong and this was Omega’s halo product. Known today as the Cosmic Complete (or Triple) Calendar Moonphase, this…
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Honeycomb Dial 6609 Rolex Turn-O-Graph ‘Thunderbird’
The 6609, widely known by its nickname the ‘Thunderbird’, is one of the most important Rolexes to not be famous whatsoever. The Turn-O-Graph was the first Rolex with a rotating bezel, but it’s not even in production anymore. This 6609 is amongst the very earliest rotating bezel Datejusts, before the name Turn-O-Graph was on every…
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6087 Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache Chronograph
This ref. 6087 was Vacheron Constantin’s answer to the water resistant 1463 ‘Tasti Tondi’, though released considerably after. Even in the mid-century Vacheron were the slowest moving of the holy trinity. However, where they landed is so expressive that it has stood the test of time as one of the most artful case shapes ever…
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126529LN Rolex Le Mans Daytona
We don’t usually talk about modern Rolex much, most of it doesn’t fit the criteria here. But some do. There hasn’t been anything like the Le Mans before. There’s this (broadly true) narrative that Rolex is increasing precious metal and pricing at a rate fast enough to become the next Hermes. And it’s true, many…
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Urban Jürgensen Reference 2
Early Urban Jürgensen has been one of the better kept secrets of independents for a few years. This, I suspect, because the brand has one of the most convoluted and difficult-to-follow histories of any. Here’s what’s relevant to this, their 90s Perpetual Calendar. The storied Danish brand was acquired by a Peter Baumberger, an enterprising…
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105.012-65 Omega Speedmaster
Not all Speedmasters are created equal. I don’t just say that because there’s a calibre 321 inside this 105.012, but because of condition (which is really everything in vintage). This example is fantastically sharp on its case, entirely correct, full set even, and sporting a dial that can only be described as pumpkin. It’s also…
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6265 Rolex Daytona, 18k Yellow Gold
To understand the Daytona is to not just understand the attitude of Rolex in racing, professional tools, and the Oyster case; today it necessitates understanding how small differences in production sum to huge differences in collectability. The gold Daytona has always been a trophy. The 6263 and 6265 mark the final evolution of the manual…
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1832 IWC Ingenieur SL
The original Ingenieur has not been bettered. Released in the same year as the 3700 Nautilus, it is the overlooked third Genta album of the 1970s integrated steel sports splashdown. But unlike the 5402 or 3700, this was at its (iron) core an antimagnetic watch. And so it’s not really the exact same category, it’s…
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