The classic four digit Tudor Submariner has never looked better than it does today. No date, gilt, and a rose dial to die for. Although the apple didn’t fall far from the Rolex 5513 tree, there’s some intangible appeal to Tudor’s alternative offering which is even stronger. This is particularly...

The 1163 GMT is one of the Heuer’s diamonds in the rough. Though the myriad vaguely-racing-oriented chronographs they’ve produced can easily be confused, this GMT stand out. It may not have been a commercial success for Heuer, but, like the early Daytonas, that has only made it more desirable to...

This two register chronograph with a world time dial and rotating bezel has almost certainly become Gallet’s most famed model. The watch was produced for the US Army Air Corps, even being worn by Harry Truman at its height. Some have argued this is the world’s first time-zone wristwatch, others...

Very little stirs the ‘purchase now’ instinct in me like the A386 El Primero these days. The monumentally innovative reference appeals to all my senses. Its design is attractive, the contrasted big-eye subs uniquely lovely. The automatic cal 3019 is as gorgeous as it was groundbreaking. It’s also a complete...

Girard Perregaux may not have the street cred of the holy trinity, but they should. GP were around and making beautiful metal in period with the big three. In my experience, amongst those who really know watches, there is universal respect for GP. Though today probably best known for the...

Racine was the historic US label for Gallet watches. Although probably best known for the ‘Flying Officer’ chronograph, Gallet’s illustrious history runs all the way back to 1826. In 1877 a relative of the Gallet family relocated from Switzerland to the US and the Racine line was born. This is...

This classic chronograph was among the first pieces released by Franck Muller after stepping out in 1991 to create his own house. Mr. Muller grew up in Switzerland and went to become a watchmaker at just fifteen. After working at an auction house, he became one of the world’s preeminent...

For those who adore the utilitarian military aesthetic of the classic pilot’s chronograph, this your watch. Moreover, theres a flash of that classic 1960s Italian style that knows no bounds. I can’t quite say why, but this watch puts me in mind of all the classic icons: the Vespa, Alfa’s...

I have nothing against the recent No Time to Die Seamaster releases. But, equally, I don’t admire them. Particularly the flagship titanium job. I can’t help feeling that the fauxtina, shark mesh, and fake broad arrow feel more like a marketing exercise than anything Bond of old would sport. I’m...

Although I struggle to articulate why, the one vintage watch which tugged at my heartstrings most over 2020 was the original Memovox. You may have taken note, I have a fascination with mechanical alarms. But the Memovox is so much more. Although this two-finish silver dial may not be quite...

Today we have the one diver often discussed, but not often seen. The early GS diver is an engineering feat with a style all its own. If you ever get the opportunity to compare this GS to a sub or SM300, you’ll be left wondering exactly how the competitors can...

Navy on steel may be a bit cliché in the moment. However, Montblanc preceeded this trend. A there’s no doubt they nailed the aesthetic. Their design echoes early Minerva pilots from after WWI, with modern touches and proportion. For the 1858 collection, Montblanc also redesigned their logo to a less...

Finding any of the original Omega trilogy in decent condition is a tall order these days. Second only the 2915 in terms of difficult is this beauty, the 2913 Seamaster 300. While the Submariner is arguably more recognizable, this original Seamaster is no less important or attractive. Although the reference...

This is not the type of watch you come across every day. It’s not even the type of watch you come across every year. The 6234 is a marker of a very crucial period in Rolex history, really the genesis of what became the Daytona. This simple chronograph didn’t gain...

If Aston’s DB4 Zagato in british racing green could be crystallized in watch form, this would be it. Laurent Ferrier himself has quite the background in motorsport, having raced seven times at the Le Mans 24. How many competitive Le Mans legends do you know that are also trained in...

The madness at MB&F had to peak somewhere. From 2005 until 2011 we as horology fanatics were treated to an ever-increasing series of ambitiously outrageous designs. In my estimation, this is the near-apex. The LM1 featured a flying central balance, one-off vertical power reserve, and two completely independent time zones....

It is always refreshing to find a vintage chronograph that has not only survived, but aged gracefully. However, when a fine wine condition is paired with this triple stepped case and muti-scale dial, I just can’t say no to a feature. Cyma are a now (basically) defunct, under-the-radar vintage manufacture...

The Freak is UN’s quintessential modern offering. Despite sounding like a polo-shirt company from India, they are in fact one of the world’s oldest and most pre-eminant watch manufactures. UN have been innovating since the very start and in continuous production no less. At the outset of the new century,...