Reissues frequently run the risk of being trite or overly reductive and damaging the reputation of the original article. However, if there is one manufacture I trust to always nail a design update, it’s Zenith. They don’t replicate and they don’t get too flamboyant in their reissue efforts. More than...

The 3445 Calatrava was every bit as modern as it was gorgeous in 1961. This petite seconds three-hander was Patek’s first automatic watch with a date window. Watch collectors today tend to turn their noses up at any dial aperture. But this is different. The 3445’s date window was a...

Few manufactures have such a harsh delineation between early and latter models as the renown FP Journe. Sure, as an example Rolex produced early dials in gilt and transitioned to tritium, but that’s just a detail. Journe shifted the entire foundation of their movement from brass to gold after an...

Something very interesting was posted to AVW this morning. That is not to say their inventory is not interesting, there is almost always something very appetizing for a horological nerd whenever I check in. Perhaps one for the more eclectic among you, this ‘sun-ray’ dialed AP is the first self-wound...

Rose dial Tudors are a soft spot for me, I admit. The history tethered to that logo in horology draws on one’s heartstrings. The early days of value-based watchmaking are something marvelous. Tudor’s Oyster-cased offering was used for the Greenland Expedition for just this reason: it was simple, unfussy, economical,...

Back when science was sexy, Bulova challenged all of Switzerland with a tuning fork and some satellite-tech based advertising. Decades of R&D were poured into this project to ensure its durability and accuracy. Despite this, the original Accutron debuted in 1960 didn’t enjoy a particularly long-lived success, folding in the...

With the recent vintage value explosion of mainstream manufactures such as Rolex and Patek, collectors are increasingly peering into the more dimly lit corners of collecting for attainable and interesting watches. Enicar is one of those dark corners that, when observed closely, you find to actually be a hallway with...

In the late 1960s, chronographs were a thing of purpose. The general public did not enjoy a screw-down pusher. However, increasingly, people had need to time specific intervals with precision. The egg-timer variety of alarm complication was growing in popularity and JLC saw fit to bring it to the people’s...

I abhor even mentioning the watch market predictions. Sapphire crystals do not double as crystal balls and even the dark arts of auction witchcraft can’t push valuations massively. At a push, I may hint that I consider vintage Movado to currently present very strong value. However, today I’ll make an...

The simple shift of tone from black to brown is enough to do strange things to my soul. This early Sea-Dweller was born of necessity for saturation diving work in collaboration with Comex. The reference see before you dates to the very start of that collaboration (patent pending backs predate...

When one goes deep into Universal, peers beyond the Polerouter, and creeps past the Clapton, other beautiful references await as reward. Among them, the debonair, thin, manual-winder that is the Monodate. With its face bearing a striking resemblance to the PP Calatrava, the 21319 is an extremely restrained dress piece....

I have been accused once or twice of showing my vintage feed favoritism. This is perhaps fair, I do find myself drawn to bit a tritium, manual chronographage (that’s a word, just invented it), and acrylic crystal. However, I love modern watchmaking. An enduring favorite of mine within the genre...

A watch need be nothing more than a simple delight to win my love. Sure technical sophistication and precious metals are great, but occasionally pure charm is more than enough. Once-large French watchmaker Lip are probably most famed for their very colorful chronographs, shouty divers, or double-signed Breitlings. The brand...

If one were ever in doubt that Girard Perregaux has pedigree, I dare venture to say this 6083 Triple Calendar would quell doubt. Though today the manufacture is mostly leaning solely on its Laureato to sustain interest, their back catalogue is extremely diverse. This 1940s triple calendar presents gold feuille...

Though not issued, this 105.012 saw a life of service. This 321 powered, CB-asymmetric-cased Speedmaster saw its way through the British Government’s Navy, Army, and Air Force Institutes after manufacture. The NAAFI provided recreational outlets and sold goods at discount to servicemen of the British Armed Forces. Though the watch...

Somewhere inside the Venn diagram of horological significance, pop culture, and master-level trolling lies this: the very elusive Domino’s-signed Air-King. The standard Air-King is an oft-overlooked, undersized, and restrained bit of Rolex sports steel. The reference ran from 1989 to 1999. Inside that timeline, Domino’s was flying high. To commemorate...

If you’ve spent time here, you’ll know I have an immense affection for Laurent Ferrier. The man’s work speaks for itself, very eloquently. Mr Ferrier is perhaps most famed for contrasting classic design and proportions with thoroughly modern movements, all finished to an exacting standard. He is also known for...

I find I am still subject to small dopamine releases when eBay presents me an alert for something very desirable. I defy you to tell me that this rough-around-the-edges, original, DON90 blueberry Ed White doesn’t turn you on at least mildly. I known I tend to favour either beautifully preserved...