Yeah, alright, I’m a complete sucker for a simple Tiffany stamp. I like the distinctly American provenance and personal story it tells. Although the same could be said of any other retailer signature, I think the majority of collectors would categorize Tiffany as among the (or thee) most desirable. The...

I understand, tagging a 5548 as a value proposition is a bit absurd but hear me out. Any watch, regardless of price level, has the potential to become a value if listed below the market. That’s precisely what we have here. And the watch in question is an appreciating fan...

The Day-Date (colloquially President) is arguably Rolex’s most iconic model, full stop. It is classic, subdued, sophisticated, timeless, and coveted. Like much of vintage Rolex the variety of iterations and custom-order examples within this one model could serve as subject to multiple volumes of research. This elicits the query, where...

In the casual horologist zeitgeist, H. Moser & Cie are best known for their Swiss Alp, Swiss Cheese, and Swiss Icon master-level marketing trolls. However, amongst those paying closer attention, Moser are known more for their gorgeous fumé dials and beautifully-finished, technically-competent calibres . . .perhaps lesser so for their...

This is a hardcore dream chronograph and perhaps the truest expression of ‘if you know, you know’ collecting. This Minerva was released in 2002 under Beppe Menaldo and a master watchmaker Demetrio Cabbidu within the 1858 series, meant to pay homage to the marque’s immense history. Although largely overlooked today,...

In the same way that the 250 GTO represents a zenith of modern Italian car collecting, this particular 7032 represents the height in Tudor chronographs. This analogy is made more direct by the 7032’s design, known as the racing or exotic dial Tudor produced. The funky, playful orange accents paved...

It is auction season and every year I seek to offer you all the one or two lots which I covet most passionately. This year, the one that caught my adoration more than most is this: a steel 6062 double signed by a retailer of mysterious origin. Yes it’s good...

The further one delves into Universal Genève, the more infatuated they become—almost without exception. This has certainly been my experience; no brand outside of the big five comes close in depth or breadth. Among their most iconic models, one has to list the Eric Clapton Tri-Compax, the 881101/1 panda dial....

I find myself incessantly craving a straight-lug Speedy these days. Maybe it’s the history. Maybe it’s the timeless design. Perhaps I’m just a snob for early reference varieties. Whatever the case, I think I just found Nirvana. The 2915 was the very first Speedmaster reference and genesis for all tachymeter...

As a long-standing Journe supporter, the time for me to feature a Bleu had to approach eventually. Few watches are as recognizable or iconic in the modern world. However, a watch can only double in value so many times before the value proposition it offers no longer makes sense. A...

The surviving relics of Britain’s horology industry seem without exception handsome. The ‘mechanical general service watch’ was manufactured for the MoD by the Hamilton factory from 1973 to 1975. The watches were issued to the Army, Royal Navy, and Air Force (those under the 6BB code). This is not a...

Enicar are one of those manufactures that existed for eternity but only really found their stride toward the end. In the decade pre-quartz crisis and their folding, Enicar was on fire. They went out in a true blaze of supernova glory with a full suite of chronograph, dive, and GMT...

Unconventional, obscure, and shrouded in mystery, the square 222 is is something of a footnote today. It is rare to come across an original shape 222 in steel, midsized or jumbo. This unassuming reference 46004 is an even less common sight. Most give it a pass for its mildly undersized...

I have heard it said that art may have no other purpose than itself. I find this a useful mnemonic to delineate what I consider artful approaches in our sphere of horology. A 2446 Big Eye Autavia is beautiful, but in this light it is not art. That is a...

If you’ve been even casually aware of Grand Seiko’s last year, you will be familiar with this watch. For the better part of a decade, Grand Seiko spoiled us with the most spectacular dials of anything shy of an order of magnitude higher in price. Their inspirations were natural, close...

In the early 1950s, Rolex created swathes of Oyster-cased wristwatches to cater the whims of specific watch-buying segments. Among those early efforts were a series of waterproof automatics meant to be durable and elegant dressier offerings, alongside the early Submariners. This is the genesis of the modern OP and it...

2004 was a solid year. The Nintendo DS was released, NASA’s scramjet hit 7000 mph, Taipei 101 opened, and Zuck created Facebook. Okay, maybe axe that last one. Additionally, Omega released two Speedmasters which are among my all time greats. The first, the modern Japan Racing. It was unique, bold,...

In the late 90s, Sinn released a series of watches known as the EZM (Einsatz Zeit Messer, or mission timer in English) line, a line which would go on to prove their legendary durability and purposeful design ethos. The pieces were intended to be abused like tools, issued, and used...