Quite recently, a 5513/7 milsub sold at auction for 350K USD. I understand that. Two Russian oil magnates drunk on free Krug champagne with one man in Oakleys laundering money for Sinaloa and sky’s the limit for valuations. However, what I will never understand is just why Omega’s broad-handed 300...

For all intents and purposes, Universal’s Tri-Compax was the business as watches went post WWII. Introduced at Baselworld 1944, the triple-complication (it’s often mistakenly assumed that “tri-compax” refers to the triple chronograph sub dial configuration) aviator’s offering was every bit as stylish as it was complicated. Derived from a pilot’s...

It’s difficult to tangibly describe to non-watch-obsessives just why the Deep Sea is as cool as it is. The model, released next to the Fifty-Fathoms and original Submariner, met divers’ needs through a completely fresh design. Rather than a rotating bezel to externally time intervals, the Deep Sea had an...

If you are beyond sick of the modern collecting Daytona hype (right there with you), don’t be so fast to turn away. In fact, I’m about to offer a viable, collectible, possibly even better-valued alternative. The now so-called neo-vintage range of 16520 and 116520 Daytonas are, to some extent, the...

Picture the scene, it’s 1973. You’re cruising down the French Riviera to pick up your significant other with nothing on your mind other than what ratios you’ll request in your Negroni tonight. You’re in an ‘old’ 275 GTB, not a new 365 Daytona because the ask is a bit dear...

It seems a little absurd to claim any high point for a manufacture that only endured a five-ish year history. Yet, I’m going to be either brave or foolish enough to claim the 19 series as a sort of apogee. Ming dove into the collector zeitgeist in 2017 with such...

It is not difficult to understand the timeless appeal of a well-executed dress watch. When complication is removed, effort in finishing is allowed to be a watch’s main focus. Total simplicity, finished to an absurd standard. I believe this appeal is, in large part, responsible for the recent astronomic rise...

In 1965, Ed White became the first American astronaut to walk in space. Needless to say, he is a hero. But he was so much more: an aeronautical engineer, USAF Officer, fighter pilot, crewmember of Gemini IV and Apollo I. He puts my entirely life, and likely yours, to shame....

Insanely technical independent De Bethune are perhaps best known for their use (or misuse) of the pun Starry Varius or insane lug designs. The manufacture is an involved one, one of the few independents that manufacture everything from the hairspring to the handset vertically. Outside of heat blued titanium, they...

What is there to say about the no crown guard, unpretentious, gilt tool that is the 5508 which has not already been said? The inherent lack a frills or finishing is its inherent charm. The small-crown sub is a cult favorite amongst Rolex collectors and for good reason. The 5508...

Have you ever wondered what the legendary Submariner would be like if stripped of all its water resistance? No? Me neither. But today I have the answer and the proposition is far more attractive than you might expect. See, in 1953, Rolex introduced a new feature known as the ‘time-recording-rim’....

When I say El Primero, you likely imagine the A386. You may even think A384, A3818, hell maybe you even think of the G381. What you almost certainly do not imagine is this: the early 90s chronograph which goes by De Luca. And yet, that’s a shame, because it’s one...

Describing to watch-civilians the mechanical distinction between a triple, annual, and perpetual calendar while watching their mind grapple with the complexity of the problem is one of the subtle joys of our obsession. This is assuming they are interested and/or you have them hostage; not everyone will appreciate the difference...

I simply can’t get the 6542 out of my head recently. There’s the timeless charm. The radium (or not). The understated proportions. However, not all examples age quite this gracefully. The soul of a GMT is its dial, and this dial is utterly marvelous. However, the watch was not born...

We all love a double-signed dial. But one need not seek out Hausmann, Serpico, or Beyer; double-signed divers exist in tool watches too. In that vein, most collectors will immediately think of Comex 5514s or Aqua-Lung Doxa. However, all of the above have the uncanny ability to cost whatever the...

There is no shortage of adjectives one could throw at this title . . .321, chocolate, radium, pre-moon, base 1000, and alpha-handed, I could go on. Save to say this: the 2998 is a sweet spot in pre-moon references for its alpha handset, chunky steel case, and historic significance. No,...

What makes a wristwatch great? Is it ultra-engineered complication? Ridiculous levels of hand finishing? Rarity? Artful expression? You won’t be surprised to hear, no one has a definitive answer. The attraction inherent to watch collecting is aa varied and deep as the threads of humanity itself. If you were to...

In the immortal words of esteemed 1970s rock band Heart, “Ooooooh Barracuda!” Among Blancpain’s pantheon of iconic, original Fifty Fathoms variants, none seems safe from the proverbial Swatch Group refresh. Normally, I roll my eyes at these cash-grabs. However, on rare occasion, my eyes roll for a millisecond before reshaping...