Breitling makes watches for aviators. This is their marketing, this is their IP, and this is their history. And yet, Breitling have made some of the world’s most gorgeous pieces of submersible steel, the likes of which are often totally overlooked. These watches were designed to be highly legible underwater,...

If you were to take Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Timer and turn it up to 11, this would be the result. The SBGY003 features one of Grand Seiko’s most spectacular radial textures, simplicity in all elements, and a case more subtle than you might expect. But then there’s the absurd level...

The 5517 is a very rare 5513-derived British Royal Navy Submariner variant. There exist true milsubs which are stamped both as either 5513 or 5517. However, there are few watches which slipped through the Swiss cracks with two references engraved. Much like the 6536/8 is the rarest case engraving of...

If you were to press me to name the ultimate Universal chronograph, I would struggle but ultimately crown the 881101 ‘Eric Clapton’. However, for fun, wrist presence, and off-brand moonwatch vibes, you really can’t compete with this close second—the bizarre and beautiful Space-Compax. Origin and purpose of the Space-Compax remain...

There aren’t many truly underrated references in Omega’s back catalogue anymore. Every collector knows and loves the early Seamasters, Ultraman 145.012s, Mad Men Constellations, hell even Schumacher’s Daytona is on the rise these days. However, amongst the dazzling base 1000 bezeled 2915 Speedmasters and tantalizingly-lollipopped 2913 Seamaster 300s, it’s easy...

It would be callous of me not to discuss this lot. The circular Series I is Roger Smith’s recent time-only master stroke. Confusingly, it comes after the Series II, which came after the square Series I. Despite it being one of Mr Smith’s more recent productions, the watch is as...

The easy, breezy, beautiful 1971 Zenith A3818 Cover Girl is something of Mewtwo to me. That is to say, it is legendary and I simply cannot seem to capture it. Despite that, the modern world has offered one hell of a consolation prize. Zenith has been on something of home...

If you think the depth and breadth of vintage marques like Universal Genève or Enicar are strong, they are. And yet, neither really hold a candle to the world’s longest running vertically-integrated manufacture outside Switzerland. Seiko has made more dive watch offerings than I will ever be able to hold...

I was recently quite ashamed to realize that despite featuring many 1675s, I have not yet spilled ink on behalf of my preferred variant. I often lament the retirement of Concorde. Yes, the plane; hear me out. It’s not often technology takes such a defiant step backwards. Particularly at all...

Though the Polerouter is probably best known in its Deluxe or Jet guise, the Sub is an equally competent vintage value. Introduced first in EPSA Super Compressor form, the Sub went on to live a long and illustrious run of references. That is, as long as any UG line can...

Breguet has a long and storied history which is far more involved than I will attempt to explain. In short, they are one of if not thee most established manufactures in watchmaking. A large section of that history is intertwined with French military watches. The ‘Type’ Breguets were a not...

Telephone companies are not glamourous. Telephone companies are not sexy. Likewise, state-owned telephone companies are a particularly lackluster proposition. And yet, in 1970s Sweden, this particularly stylish steel Breitling defied that paradigm. Televerket, as mentioned, operated all phone lines in Sweden in period. The Swedish military had a brief romance...

Amongst the soon-to-be-discontinued Z-blue, CERN, and white-orange dialed Milgausses (Milgausss, Milgausses, or Milgaussi?), it’s easy to forget the that antimagnetic Wilsdorf family member can sport a more subdued tone. In black, the 1019 looks absolutely pedestrian in the best way possible; mostly because it is absolutely anything but. The level...

I strive to feature wholly original watches at all times where possible, though in the world of vintage that is an increasingly grey line. Is a watch that has been serviced with a replacement crystal still original? What about a mainspring, as they pose huge risk to the entire movement...

Trilogy Seamasters are great, but this is something else entirely. The Seamaster 300 story began in 1957 with the CK2913. In that first Seamaster 300, Omega had created a reliable water resistance with handsome lines that recalled naval pieces of WWII, decades earlier. It was a monumental success, one which...

How good does this look? If you’re anything like me, the only valid reply is ‘quite’. In fact, I’ve said before that the two-tone Barilotto is perhaps the only Rolex which is simultaneously very conspicuous and very tasteful. The tones are loud, the profile is discreet. The manufacture is Rolex,...

As Patek’s first chronograph produced at meaningful scale, the 130 holds a special place in many collector’s hearts. It also happens to be one of their most diverse and longest-reaching vintage production runs ever. The design was given space to evolve from 1934 until 1964, with changes going so far...

Yeah, alright, this is probably my pick amongst all the modern IWC lot. I know it’s simple. I know it’s humble. I know I’ve featured it before. But with IWC’s recent reissue and collectors becoming increasingly accepting of ceramics, I thought it fit to revisit just what makes the 3705...