There’s a lot of buzz around Cartier these days. Thin, elegant, significant, and discreet . . .these are the attritbutes collectors seem to hold dear today. We are witnessing an equal and opposite reaction to the ostentatious Stallone Luminors and endless Offshore LEs of the early 00s. The era of...

Given recent world events, the moniker this Royal Oak holds is keenly poignant. Nonetheless, chess grandmaster and political activist Garry Kasparov is proving quite the fountain of insight during troubled times for all. Something of a reminder that many Russians are only hostage to a government operating as a mid-century...

‘Simultaneously totally opulent yet somehow tasteful.’ That is how I’ve previously described the 1680/8 conversationally and stand by it. Rolex’s fabled gold Submariner may in fact be the single watch most classically representative of the ‘fuck-you-money’ attitude, and somehow it has aged into a thing of connoisseurship and studied attention....

Highly collected, issued military watches do not necessarily have to come with prohibitive values. With a little careful research, one or two may actually provide value. And when I say one or two, I mean basically just Seiko 7A28 military chronographs. As a rule, I tend to prefer mechanics to...

‘The further from home one ventures, the more they know themself.’ This was a shower thought that flew through my mind many years ago while living in a foreign country for the first time. I’m not even sure it’s accurate. But the horological equivalent might be, which is to say;...

In vintage Heuer, as Wilsdorf and a few others, there is no shortage of inter-reference nuance. The Autavia is undoubtedly one of the most revered vintage chronographs all time. And yet, very few collectors are inflating slight discrepancies to massive proportions for profit; there is far less of the ‘meters-first’...

The Beatles are not remembered as they are today for their outright technical skill. Nor are they forever loved simply for being handsome, though they certainly had that in spades. The Beatles aren’t even remembered as they are for merely innovating, treading new musical territory. The Beatles are the most...

If you adhere to the modern aphorism which states that condition is the new rarity, you’ll understand my total excitement here. Perfection in vintage watches really doesn’t exist. Therefore, what I like personally are honest examples with integrity and cohesive character. More than that, however, I have weak spot for...

Daniel Roth is to independent watchmaking what the 911 GT1 is to modern Porsche products. He was there at the start, did it better than most with many accolades, paved the way for an entire category, and yet is recognized today with extremely high regard only by those who appreciate...

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is not famed for his subtlety or lack of creativity. In fact, more than most, he allows these forces to run rampant. It should come as no surprise, then, that after having been given the green light to collaborate with Swedish-Finn illustrator and Moomin Creator...

Make no mistake, this is no revival reissue. I once described Zenith’s easy, breezy, beautiful 1971 Cover Girl both legendary and seemingly unattainable, something of a Mewtwo amongst El Primeros. Obscure Pokémon references aside, that changed today when this gem was listed. The Cover Girl isn’t just a pretty dial,...

Rarity is no guarantee of greatness and complication does not necessarily improve usability. To prove the opposing truth, I give you the humble EPSA Super Compressor Bulova 666ft. Bulova’s take on the generic Ervin Piquerez case design was characteristically purposeful. A simple dial, signed twin crowns, and engraved case back...

A detail can make all the difference. The 2000s black series CLK AMG has just ever-so slightly anabolic wheel arches and multi-spoke alloys which allow the educated observer to mark it apart from some dime-a-dozen Germanic grocery getter. Similarly, a Japanese whisky with an age statement hidden on the corner...

A confluence of haute horlogerie and athletic heights, this RM38 is not your typical watch. It’s not even your typical Richard Mille, if there is such a thing. Yohan Blake sprinted alongside Usain Bolt at the storied 2012 London Olympics, where he took a gold in relay and dual silver...

In many ways, the ‘triple six’ is the archetypal modern Sea-Dweller. While the 1665 is undoubtedly lore, a watch built to be invulnerable truly deserves sapphire in my eye. Moreover, it embraces the beastly proportions necessary to declare a 1220m depth rating. Early examples preserved much of the charm inherent...

It’s no secret that steel sports Rolex are in their own class these days. Hell, people are even willing to sell a kidney or more for a Lange 1 in steel. As steel Rolex auction results routinely break new highs, it seems worth considering their precious metal-based siblings as an...

The Chronomaster is not only handsome, but may perhaps be one of the best examples ever of unrecognized depth within a single reference. Unrecognized not for its merit, but unrecognized in the sheer degree of depth and comparably vast scholarship that surrounds this still-attainable chronograph. Its production spanned differing dials,...

Very recently, you will have seen here a quite rare empty grey dial Santos Carrée. That is something of an attainable grail to many. However, it is worth remembering that even Cartier’s ‘standard’ neo-vintage integrated steel offering deserves respect. More than respect. In fact, it is the very platform which...