I simply can’t get the 6542 out of my head recently. There’s the timeless charm. The radium (or not). The understated proportions. However, not all examples age quite this gracefully. The soul of a GMT is its dial, and this dial is utterly marvelous. However, the watch was not born...

We all love a double-signed dial. But one need not seek out Hausmann, Serpico, or Beyer; double-signed divers exist in tool watches too. In that vein, most collectors will immediately think of Comex 5514s or Aqua-Lung Doxa. However, all of the above have the uncanny ability to cost whatever the...

There is no shortage of adjectives one could throw at this title . . .321, chocolate, radium, pre-moon, base 1000, and alpha-handed, I could go on. Save to say this: the 2998 is a sweet spot in pre-moon references for its alpha handset, chunky steel case, and historic significance. No,...

What makes a wristwatch great? Is it ultra-engineered complication? Ridiculous levels of hand finishing? Rarity? Artful expression? You won’t be surprised to hear, no one has a definitive answer. The attraction inherent to watch collecting is aa varied and deep as the threads of humanity itself. If you were to...

In the immortal words of esteemed 1970s rock band Heart, “Ooooooh Barracuda!” Among Blancpain’s pantheon of iconic, original Fifty Fathoms variants, none seems safe from the proverbial Swatch Group refresh. Normally, I roll my eyes at these cash-grabs. However, on rare occasion, my eyes roll for a millisecond before reshaping...

This is not a watch one is priviledged to see in the metal frequently. And by that, I mean not ever. Finding anything built in 1940 but still in operation today is a rarity. Finding a wristwatch built in 1940 that is functioning perfectly demonstrates a level of dedication to...

If you’re going to be an expert of marketing, you’d better be able to back it up. Thankfully, the work of H. Moser & Cie is about the furthest thing from a façade possible. Possibly best known as being masters of the gorgeous fumé dial, Moser back up the aesthetic...

Breitling makes watches for aviators. This is their marketing, this is their IP, and this is their history. And yet, Breitling have made some of the world’s most gorgeous pieces of submersible steel, the likes of which are often totally overlooked. These watches were designed to be highly legible underwater,...

If you were to take Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Timer and turn it up to 11, this would be the result. The SBGY003 features one of Grand Seiko’s most spectacular radial textures, simplicity in all elements, and a case more subtle than you might expect. But then there’s the absurd level...

The 5517 is a very rare 5513-derived British Royal Navy Submariner variant. There exist true milsubs which are stamped both as either 5513 or 5517. However, there are few watches which slipped through the Swiss cracks with two references engraved. Much like the 6536/8 is the rarest case engraving of...

If you were to press me to name the ultimate Universal chronograph, I would struggle but ultimately crown the 881101 ‘Eric Clapton’. However, for fun, wrist presence, and off-brand moonwatch vibes, you really can’t compete with this close second—the bizarre and beautiful Space-Compax. Origin and purpose of the Space-Compax remain...

There aren’t many truly underrated references in Omega’s back catalogue anymore. Every collector knows and loves the early Seamasters, Ultraman 145.012s, Mad Men Constellations, hell even Schumacher’s Daytona is on the rise these days. However, amongst the dazzling base 1000 bezeled 2915 Speedmasters and tantalizingly-lollipopped 2913 Seamaster 300s, it’s easy...

It would be callous of me not to discuss this lot. The circular Series I is Roger Smith’s recent time-only master stroke. Confusingly, it comes after the Series II, which came after the square Series I. Despite it being one of Mr Smith’s more recent productions, the watch is as...

The easy, breezy, beautiful 1971 Zenith A3818 Cover Girl is something of Mewtwo to me. That is to say, it is legendary and I simply cannot seem to capture it. Despite that, the modern world has offered one hell of a consolation prize. Zenith has been on something of home...

If you think the depth and breadth of vintage marques like Universal Genève or Enicar are strong, they are. And yet, neither really hold a candle to the world’s longest running vertically-integrated manufacture outside Switzerland. Seiko has made more dive watch offerings than I will ever be able to hold...

I was recently quite ashamed to realize that despite featuring many 1675s, I have not yet spilled ink on behalf of my preferred variant. I often lament the retirement of Concorde. Yes, the plane; hear me out. It’s not often technology takes such a defiant step backwards. Particularly at all...

Though the Polerouter is probably best known in its Deluxe or Jet guise, the Sub is an equally competent vintage value. Introduced first in EPSA Super Compressor form, the Sub went on to live a long and illustrious run of references. That is, as long as any UG line can...

Breguet has a long and storied history which is far more involved than I will attempt to explain. In short, they are one of if not thee most established manufactures in watchmaking. A large section of that history is intertwined with French military watches. The ‘Type’ Breguets were a not...