The humble three-register chronograph: executed by many, yet perfected by few. I am not claiming that the 222101 is a perfect watch, within Universal that’s probably something we call Nina. Outside of Universal, we call it Daytona or Speedmaster. However, I am saying that outside of this triumvirate, it is...

There are many trends that need to die in vintage watches. Socially-driven hypebeasting, frankenwatching, thoughtless dial refinishing, and default factory service case polishing to name a few. However, my day-to-day life touches on one unfortunate trend more frequently than most: what I call hyper-niche collecting. Let me explain; there are...

If, as Lord Harold Samuel popularized, the three things that matter in property are location, location, and location, then I’m here to state that the three things that matter in vintage are condition, condition, and condition. This is taking authenticity, originality, and provenance for granted. Auction results, private sales, and...

Bear with me; this one requires some exposition. Even if I constantly strive to feature the most interesting and niche selections across the entire market, I’d like to think every now and then I can still surprise. However, this morning, even I’m surprised. I’m surprised by how much mystery surrounds...

It would be the height of understatement to say Zenith are known for their chronographs. In fact, with the exception of one literally out-of-this-world competitor, their reputation is almost synonymous with hi-beats and elapsed intervals. Undoubtedly, the El Primero range comprises the manufacture’s primary notoriety. Hey, if you can’t actually...

Quite recently, a 5513/7 milsub sold at auction for 350K USD. I understand that. Two Russian oil magnates drunk on free Krug champagne with one man in Oakleys laundering money for Sinaloa and sky’s the limit for valuations. However, what I will never understand is just why Omega’s broad-handed 300...

For all intents and purposes, Universal’s Tri-Compax was the business as watches went post WWII. Introduced at Baselworld 1944, the triple-complication (it’s often mistakenly assumed that “tri-compax” refers to the triple chronograph sub dial configuration) aviator’s offering was every bit as stylish as it was complicated. Derived from a pilot’s...

It’s difficult to tangibly describe to non-watch-obsessives just why the Deep Sea is as cool as it is. The model, released next to the Fifty-Fathoms and original Submariner, met divers’ needs through a completely fresh design. Rather than a rotating bezel to externally time intervals, the Deep Sea had an...

If you are beyond sick of the modern collecting Daytona hype (right there with you), don’t be so fast to turn away. In fact, I’m about to offer a viable, collectible, possibly even better-valued alternative. The now so-called neo-vintage range of 16520 and 116520 Daytonas are, to some extent, the...

Picture the scene, it’s 1973. You’re cruising down the French Riviera to pick up your significant other with nothing on your mind other than what ratios you’ll request in your Negroni tonight. You’re in an ‘old’ 275 GTB, not a new 365 Daytona because the ask is a bit dear...

It seems a little absurd to claim any high point for a manufacture that only endured a five-ish year history. Yet, I’m going to be either brave or foolish enough to claim the 19 series as a sort of apogee. Ming dove into the collector zeitgeist in 2017 with such...

It is not difficult to understand the timeless appeal of a well-executed dress watch. When complication is removed, effort in finishing is allowed to be a watch’s main focus. Total simplicity, finished to an absurd standard. I believe this appeal is, in large part, responsible for the recent astronomic rise...

In 1965, Ed White became the first American astronaut to walk in space. Needless to say, he is a hero. But he was so much more: an aeronautical engineer, USAF Officer, fighter pilot, crewmember of Gemini IV and Apollo I. He puts my entirely life, and likely yours, to shame....

Insanely technical independent De Bethune are perhaps best known for their use (or misuse) of the pun Starry Varius or insane lug designs. The manufacture is an involved one, one of the few independents that manufacture everything from the hairspring to the handset vertically. Outside of heat blued titanium, they...

What is there to say about the no crown guard, unpretentious, gilt tool that is the 5508 which has not already been said? The inherent lack a frills or finishing is its inherent charm. The small-crown sub is a cult favorite amongst Rolex collectors and for good reason. The 5508...

Have you ever wondered what the legendary Submariner would be like if stripped of all its water resistance? No? Me neither. But today I have the answer and the proposition is far more attractive than you might expect. See, in 1953, Rolex introduced a new feature known as the ‘time-recording-rim’....

When I say El Primero, you likely imagine the A386. You may even think A384, A3818, hell maybe you even think of the G381. What you almost certainly do not imagine is this: the early 90s chronograph which goes by De Luca. And yet, that’s a shame, because it’s one...

Describing to watch-civilians the mechanical distinction between a triple, annual, and perpetual calendar while watching their mind grapple with the complexity of the problem is one of the subtle joys of our obsession. This is assuming they are interested and/or you have them hostage; not everyone will appreciate the difference...