It is difficult to overstate the importance of the 16520. The Cosmograph had become undesirable and a stagnant seller by the year 1988. For context, there are stories from that era of customers asking to buy special production Day-Dates, but having to purchase Daytonas to sweeten the AD’s books. What...

Of the last decade, Universal’s Polerouter has slowly shifted from being a niche enthusiast’s micro-rotor to a foundational reference of attainable watch collecting. No one will argue that this is not deserved; the Genta-designed aesthetic is graceful as they come, the movement is technically impressive, and the dial is bewitching....

In collectible Daniel Roth, those years where the man himself oversaw operations stand clearly distinguished from post-2000 Bulgari-acquisition watches. Many enthusiasts have preference for the very early years, where modified Lemania calibres powered much of the manufacture’s offerings. However, one or two grail-level pieces were also produced throughout the latter...

While Heuers with Autavia, Carrera, and Monaco on the dial tend to dominate industry attention, the manufacture has an almost bewildering history of obscure and interesting low-production references. The Cortina is one model at the apex of that category, though substantially less famous than the Skipper, Seafarer, or even Solunagraph....

If Rolex had an essentials album, the 1803 would undoubtedly be a starred track. In production for nearly three decades as the halo product, Wilsdorf’s innovative Day-Date complication became synonymous with status after a 1966 ad with a red phone which simply stated, ‘the president’s watch.’ Day-Date collecting could be...

It’s rare enough to find original Seamaster 300s. Yet, often, the original examples are worn to hell with flaking lume, abused cases, and corrosion peppering the movement. Today, we have the opposite: an original, yet very composed Seamaster 300. The 300 was introduced at the end of WWII to British...

It is simply not possible for any mere mortal to out-cool Eric Clapton; eternally influential guitar genius, CBE, friend of all the rock greats, and, perhaps most relevant to today, a dedicated watch enthusiast. Clapton has not just been a watch collector since fame and fortune, no. Clapton has been...

The words Rolex and complicated very rarely appear together. Rolex stands for professional watchmaking. Originally tools for purpose, elevated throughout the decades to objects of luxury. In all the coronet’s magnificent lore, there are only a handful of references that fall into the general definition of complicated. Offhand, there’s the...

If last round’s Nivada Datomaster represents one of the most niche enthusiast chronographs ever produced, surely this is the diver’s equivalent. The Submariner and Fifty Fathoms are generally regarded as the world’s foremost early dive watches. However, Doxa, Gruen, Breitling, and this Eberhard were all there from the very start....

In 2004, FP Journe made a fairly monumental shift to begin manufacturing all of their movements from 18k gold, following brass. In that year, Journe updated the Resonance with a new reference, the RN (Resonance Nouveau) series with a 1499.2 calibre. Shortly thereafter, that movement was updated to include an...

Condition is king. Condition is the new rarity. Condition, condition, condition. We’ve all heard the aphorisms praising sharp cases and original dial finishing. Here’s the thing though: these rules don’t just apply to Phillips auctions or vintage watches worth median home values. Condition is also a clear differentiator in more...

Cartier’s Privé Collection has been lighting on fire the hearts of enthusiast in recent years, revisiting the heights of their past with a modern lens. The collection reintroduced the manufacture’s remarkable history to a level of watchmaking not seen since CPCP. Crowdpleasers like the Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, and Asymétrique came...

It is a little-discussed fact that rose gold is substantially less common than yellow or white gold in vintage Day-Date production. But, where Rolex are concerned, not all vintage rose golds are quite consistent. The alloy was constantly evolving throughout the very lengthy run of the 1803. Early Day-Dates, such...

This unassuming Nivada is one of the most intruiging and—truly—rare watches we’ve ever featured here. The grey dial, contrasting subs, playful orange accents, and date at 12 are all so distinctly lovely. And yet, you’ve almost certainly never come across one before. Chances are, you may not even be aware...

You are not a Navy Sealab/Comex diver. You are not an astronaut. You are not a factory Porsche driver. At least, based on relative viewership and statistics. Despite these many shortcomings, you and I may still enjoy a small link to these outrageous professions. In 1977, the reference 1665 Sea-Dweller...

This is a rare and eccentric showing of playfulness from Mr Journe, not likely to be repeated. Like much of Journe’s work, there is a story behind the visually striking watchmaking on display. This partially openworked dial is not executed in a remotely traditional way. In addition, it is one...

We love a Royal Oak around here. However, not all are created equal. In the pantheon of neo-vintage Royal Oaks, a few dials are clear standups. Right up near the very top are the rare electric-blue Yves Klein dials. Klein was a French artist who became known for frequent use...

The 13ZN is one of collectors’ favorite calibers from Longines or anyone full stop. The 13ZN movement, circa 1936, was truly innovative and beautiful. It featured a fully ‘in house’ (before it was cool) architecture, one of the first ever flyback chronographs in a wristwatch (argued, intentionally left vague), 17...