Exotic 181102 Universal Genève Tri-Compax

181102-Universal-Genève-Exotic-Tri-Compax

No one needed convincing that the depth of Universal Genève’s archives rival the Mariana Trench. And yet, like hearing a 911 guy repeatedly drone on to you about how a rear engined platform actually gives you more weight over the rear axle, I’m going to reiterate the point anyway. This is not one of the…

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Mk1 9420/0 Tudor Big Block Monte Carlo

9420-Tudor-Big-Block-Monte-Carlo

This unassuming Tudor combines the very best of two iconic chronographs: the practicality of a Big Block sprinkled with the the magic that was the flamboyant Monte Carlo dial. This is an automatic 7750, but with a dial very reminiscent of the 7100 series Monte Carlos. Alongside the standard production 9420/0, Tudor also produced what…

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‘Silver Script’ 3647N Heuer Carrera

Silver-Script-Heuer-Carrera-3647N

There’s nothing like an obscure, meaningless detail to get watch enthusiasts researching. Early Carreras and early Daytonas share more than just a column-wheel Valjoux 72 heartbeat. We’re talking same hour markers, milled subdials, and subdial numerals. See, the earliest Carreras had dials manufactured by Singer—the very same of Rolex fame. And these Singer dials came…

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Mk2 A386 Zenith El Primero

Mk2-A386-Zenith-El-Primero

‘The want’ is very strong with vintage Zenith. As a blanket term, ‘vintage Zenith’ covers so much: the original covergirl, G381, A277, Moonphase Calibre 3019 PHF Prototype, I could go on. In that list most definitely lies the A386. Its design is attractive, the contrasted overlapping big-eye subs uniquely lovely. The automatic cal 3019 is…

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885103/02 ‘Nina Rindt’ Universal Genève Compax

Nina-Rindt-Universal-Genève-885103/02

In the pantheon of Universal Genève, three stand above the rest: they are the Big Eye, the Clapton, and this: Nina Rindt. Of all Compax chronographs, this humble Valjoux 72 is almost certainly the most desirable. Surprisingly rare, beautiful in detail, and with a well-photographed tragic love story of a history. The Nina represents an…

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2147 Daniel Roth Lemania Skeleton Chronograph

Daniel-Roth-2147-Lemania-Skeleton-Chronograph

For being one of the most influential independent watchmakers to have ever walked the Earth, Daniel Roth is today not a part of the discourse in the way that Journe, Voutilainen, MB&F, or even Akrivia are. This, I suspect, is because Roth is not easily understood immediately; Roth requires study. There are multiple eras of…

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Salmon Dial 247.X.10 Daniel Roth Chronograph

Daniel-Roth-247.X.10-Chronograph-Salmon-Dial

Of all watchmakers who were there at the very start of the independent movement, Daniel Roth may be the least understood and appreciated (relatively to his immense accomplishments). Having paved the way for an entire category, I can think of no early independent whose work is more deserving of increased attention. This is perhaps in…

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Tropical 1153N ‘Mick Jagger’ Heuer Carrera

Heuer-Carrera-1153-Mick-Jagger

If you didn’t know, Mick Jagger isn’t just one of the most accomplished and energetic singer/songwriter frontmen of all time. He’s a watch guy, and quite an interesting one. Although he’s been spotted wearing other things such as a Seiko 6309-7040, Mr. Jagger is a Heuer man. The vast majority of spots in which a…

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73345 CHT Heuer Camaro

Heuer-Camaro-73345-CHT

The Camaro was Jack Heuer’s attempt to capture the heart of the American muscle car market in watch form, strategically named after the eponymous Chevrolet in order to get a foot in the US market. Its cushion-case and traditional dial were a blend of the successful Monaco and Carrera lines, a confluence which is a…

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Value Proposition: 71.1309.70 Wakmann Triple Calendar Chronograph

Wakmann-Triple-Calendar-Chronograph-71.1309.70

Interesting and attractive watches can still be found for reasonable prices. Wakmann were, from the 1940s until 1970s, a US importer for Breitling. Toward the middle of that tenure, the group decided to branch out and bring their own sporting watches to market. In doing so, they tapped Breitling’s supply chain for high quality, value-based…

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