01.0210.415 ‘Surf’ Zenith El Primero

Zenith-El-Primero-Surf-01.0210.415

The El Primero story is lore, not only for its extreme ambition in engineering but equally that the world almost lost the calibre through the quartz crisis. Thank god for Charles Vermot, the watchmaker who disobeyed Zenith’s head office instructions to sell off all things to do with mechanical watchmaking, hiding away the plans, spares,…

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5237 Breguet Classique Chronograph in WG

5237-Breguet-Classique-Chronograph

In 1970, the Chaumet brothers were hired to bring Breguet back to their former glory. One of the longest running and most historically significant manufactures of all time (ever heard of the Breguet hairspring or overcoil?), Breguet was to be made the high-end name in Switzerland once again by new investment. The brothers hired a…

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Francois Borgel Movado M95 in 18K YG

Movado-M95-Borgel-Case-Yellow-Gold

The M95 is a chronograph to tell the world you know precisely what you’re up to. Immense history, detail, and charm contained within a single chronograph that, for the most part, the watch public remain nearly oblivious toward. This is certainly one of those watches which, if spotted on the street or in a random…

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2447NST Heuer Carrera Second Execution

2447NST-Heuer-Carrera

This may very well be the most killer iteration of all those very killer early Carreras. Reverse panda, three register, inner tachymetre scale. What this unpretentious chronograph has lost in minimalism, it makes up for in being true to form: motorsport heritage. A racing chronograph without a tachymetre scale is like GT3 without a wing…

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Blancpain Air Command Flyback

Blancpain-Air-Command-Flyback-Chronograph-Vintage

Common lore of the mythical Blancpain Air Command goes something like this: after Blancpain’s success with the US Navy Fifty Fathoms through Allen Tornek, the manufacture made just a few (estimates range from 8-12) flyback chronograph prototypes in the hopes of attracting Air Force contracts. Nothing really came of that effort aside from a just…

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Blue 7169 Tudor Monte Carlo

7169-Tudor-Monte-Carlo-Blue

As @kingflum pointed out to me recently, value is a relative metric. In many regards, it can only be considered subjective. Many collectors love the 7159 (steel bezel) and 7149 (bakelite bezel) Monte Carlos for their fixed bezel designs, doubling down on classic chronograph style. The 7169 has always lagged behind the market ever so…

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49002 Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Chronograph in PT

49002-Vacheron-Constantin-Les-Historiques-Chronograph-Platinum

Obscured, understated, and extremely rare, the 49002 was released toward the start of VC’s Les Historiques range. Much like Cartier’s CPCP or even Zenith’s Revival line, the collection aimed to revisit the best of their immense past with exceptional modern watchmaking technique. So why has no one heard of the 49002? Well, just 700 examples…

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110.233 Heuer Cortina

110.233-Heuer-Cortina

While Heuers with Autavia, Carrera, and Monaco on the dial tend to dominate industry attention, the manufacture has an almost bewildering history of obscure and interesting low-production references. The Cortina is one model at the apex of that category, though substantially less famous than the Skipper, Seafarer, or even Solunagraph. Despite Heuer’s motorsport pedigree, the…

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Franck Muller 7000CC Tuxedo Dial

Franck-Muller-7000CC-Tuxedo-Dial

While Franck Muller is known as the ‘master of complications’, it is his single complication watches which have stood the test of time. While I think most, myself included, admire the extreme creativity on display in some of his more eccentrically vivacious offerings, there is a distinction drawn between admiration and the want to engage…

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