One Characterful Pilot: Breitling 812 GMT Chronograph

Breitling-812-GMT-Chronograph-1968

If I’m aggressively, incriminatingly honest, the Navitimer tends to bore me slightly. Even the AOPA dials. I much prefer something like a Co-Pilot, Chronomat, early Premier, Unitime, or this. Breitling’s history is rich enough that they need not rely on the Navitimer’s past as heavily as they have historically. When most people think shouty, colourful…

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IWC Pilot’s Chronograph 150 Years LE

IWC-Pilot's-Chronograph-150-Years-IW377725

For all intents and purposes, IWC owns the modern pilot’s chronograph. Their original fliegerchronograph design changed little in the last in the last few decades. Ever the Germanic-Swiss manufacture, they took their time and got it right the first time. That painstaking attention has served them well in recent decades. IWC recently celebrated their 150th…

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KAF-Issued Heuer 73663 Autavia

Heuer-73663-Autavia-Kenyan-Air-Force

When you think military-issued pieces, you probably think milsub for the Royal Navy, MN Tudors, or the dirty dozen. You probably do not imagine Heuers for the Kenyan Air Force. And yet, funky-vintage-cool does not come much more funky-vintage-cool than this KAF-issued 73663. The Autavia was, as I’m sure you know, a contraction of automotive-aviation.…

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Vacheron Constantin 4072

Vacheron-Constantin-4072-Chronograph

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: one of the great weaknesses of my generation (Y and over) is the un-appreciation of subtlety. For the most part, we like flash. Rolex knows this. I believe deep in my core that the Stella dial OPs released last year were aimed squarely at my demographic.…

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An Impossibly Beautiful Vetta Cronografo Ermetico Impermeable

Vetta-Cronografo-Ermetico

Not many designs from 1940 feel at home today. Certainly, few have aged as gracefully as the humble multi-scale chronograph. This is particularly true of this Italian Valjoux-based clamshell. Vetta was the Italian-branded partner of Wyler’s European arm. Small alterations were made to the Wyler designs, such as the flair of colorful details this example…

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Rolex 3525 ‘Barilotto’ in Pink Gold & Steel with Champagne Dial

Rolex-3525-Pink-Gold-Steel-Champagne

Impossibly conspicuous wristwatches and impossibly tasteful wristwatches are often mutually exclusive categories. An RM-030 with its declutchable rotor mechanism is very conspicuous and very innovative. But it most certainly is not tasteful. In fact, I’ve heard various RMs described as ‘Invacta for the 1%’. I may or may not agree. Likewise, the recent Girard Perregaux…

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Breguet 3230 in Rose Gold

Breguet-3230-Chronograph-Rose-Gold

This is perhaps reductive, but I tend to view any Lemania 2310-based watch as a movement wearing a watch. Let me elaborate. Usually, I evaluate a watch at its ability to accomplish its given purpose. I then assess how well a manufacture’s design of movement suits that task. But where the Lemania 2310 is concerned,…

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Tropical Heuer 1163 GMT ‘Red Needle’

Tropical-Heuer-1163-GMT-Red-Needle

The 1163 GMT is one of the Heuer’s diamonds in the rough. Though the myriad vaguely-racing-oriented chronographs they’ve produced can easily be confused, this GMT stand out. It may not have been a commercial success for Heuer, but, like the early Daytonas, that has only made it more desirable to collectors today. Pieces like this…

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Genesis of Modern Zenith: the A386

Zenith-El-Primero-A386

Very little stirs the ‘purchase now’ instinct in me like the A386 El Primero these days. The monumentally innovative reference appeals to all my senses. Its design is attractive, the contrasted big-eye subs uniquely lovely. The automatic cal 3019 is as gorgeous as it was groundbreaking. It’s also a complete sleeper to the general population.…

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1 of 50 Early Franck Muller Steel Chronograph

Franck-Muller-Special-Limited-Edition-Steel-Chronograph

This classic chronograph was among the first pieces released by Franck Muller after stepping out in 1991 to create his own house. Mr. Muller grew up in Switzerland and went to become a watchmaker at just fifteen. After working at an auction house, he became one of the world’s preeminent watch restorers. He oversaw Patek…

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