2508 Patek Philippe Calatrava

Very little can truly be described as timeless. A Patek Calatrava deserves that laudable adjective like little else. The 2508, produced between 1951 and 1960, is a high point of the Calatrava lineage for many. It debuted a larger 35mm case manufactured by Taubert & Fils (later known as Borgel) which echoed the design elements of the 1463, including a sporting screw-down caseback. The result was a restrained yet modern three-hander that flirted with sporting pretense while maintaining a totally classic aesthetic.

But the details go further: dot and dagger indices, dauphine hands, hard enamel signature, and a seconds track calibrated to 1/5 second divisions to match the beat rate of the calibre 27SC—a detail overlooked by many which truly demonstrates the level of care and respect 1950s Patek maintained for their customer. The 2508 was produced in this yellow gold, rose gold, and a few scarce steel examples. Yellow gold as shown here is by some margin the most produced.

Moreover, that calibre 27SC was the first-ever direct center seconds movement produced at scale by Patek. That innovation allowed for a thinner movement (here 4.95mm) and more consistent seconds hand motion. It also debuted a new metal dust cover which helped keep magnetism at bay and served as forerunner to the early A-magnetic references.

This example sports a full case with easily visible 18k hallmarks. The dial shows light wear, with no discoloration but light strikes under the central pinion. All indices and tracks are perfect. It is running well and comes from a well-regarded Swiss vintage retailer.

Find this 2508 here from Vintage Watches Zermatt for ~35000 USD.