Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, Platinum

Last year, Cartier's cult classic Tortue Monopoussoir received a breath of new life. Privé has revisited the beloved 90s chronograph devised from THA and the minds of a young Journe, Halter, and Flageollet. Although the shape goes back much further to 1912, surprisingly the second case shape Cartier made after the Santos Dumont. It’s older than the Tank. Well, not this one. The Tank Monopoussoir is ancient as well though, debuting in 1928. It’s always been a limited release or small-run watch since, but this time it’s quite limited at 200 examples in platinum. And it has rather significantly grown up since the CPCP iteration.

What’s changed? Everything. Starting with the calibre, it’s a new column wheel developed with Le Cercle des Horlogers that’s properly decorated and Tortue-shaped. This calibre was made for this case, take notes Patek. The other large visual change is the dial. There’s no sole Roman twelve, the complete numerals are raised and plated in rhodium. Interestingly, there’s still a secret signature that’s printed in between two rhodium sections. The lugs of the case taper in more aggressively and the overall profile is just a touch thinner. In fact, it shares the same impressive flatness of the time-only at 10.2mm. Interestingly that’s a design decision, this case could be even flatter as the calibre itself is a remarkable 4.3mm thin.

This is only the second Privé Tortue Monopoussoir I’m aware of trading hands. They seem to have sold, found their homes, and largely stayed there. With a run as small as 200, that sort of makes sense. Importantly, this release is one that Cartier got quite right. The volume was right. The focus on proportions and having a ‘bespoke’ calibre were the right two angles to appeal to today’s market. But the base form of the Tortue Monopoussoir is just so charming that any step in the right direction is massively appealing to collectors. The old 1928 Tortue Monopoussoir was for decades, and until the recent Crash/London craze, the most expensive Cartier ever sold at auction. That’s because we all adore this thing. Great to have it back.

This example is as you would expect a one-year old watch to be. It's excellent. No real signs of wear to mention. It is almost a new piece, delivered April 2025. A rapid turnaround, it appears.