Pre-Daytona Rolex 6238 in Yellow Gold
Describing a gold wristwatch as elegance personified would be an incredible pretentious thing to do. And yet, here typing this, I am tempted to. These 6238s, like many early Rolex chronographs, don’t shout with bright colors or oversized lugs. They simply are icons. I’ve written before about the legacy of the Daytona and how the…
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An FP Journe Vertical Souverain Tourbillon
Describing technical innovation within a largely antiquated art is a mildly-hilarious thing. However, to properly describe this Journe, that is the task I have been set. The tourbillon is a complication which constantly rotates an escapement to even the effects of gravity on its balance spring. I’d refer you to this article by Breguet if…
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Not That Pepsi: Heuer 2446C GMT
For the last decade, I’ve been slowly watching Heuer’s Autavia (short for automotive/aviation) gain favor from collectors besides Jeff Stein. There is a limit to how much one can spend on a 6263 before alternatives start to look more appetizing. Today, I think I can say the same for the 6542. This 2446C isn’t just…
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Wittnauer Valjoux 71 Chronograph
Wittnauer, later absorbed by Bulova and Longines, used to make some beautiful chronographs. Wittnauer began as an American pocket watch manufacture who adapted during wartime to wristwatches. The later 242T and 7004A are probably their best known references. But well before either came this wartime chronograph. This early reference is radium-lumed with a salmon dial…
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European Market Jaeger Lecoultre Deep Sea Alarm
Very little today is as unassuming as this humble JLC. The classic size, slight hint of super-compressor casing, and near-empty dial… This is the antithesis of a rainbow Daytona. And yet, it is rarer. Dare I say, in time, it may be more valuable as well. It’s the type of piece that tells even the…
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Fiona Krüger’s Memento Mori
I often lament just how structured and predictable most Swiss watchmaking has become. Rolex increased the case size of the newest sub by .3mm and the media thought this was actually a story. That lazy attitude is what makes pieces like Ms Krügers work, and other independents, all the more special. You’ll never see someone…
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2310 in an Evening Dress: Vacheron Les Historiques Chronograph
Lemania’s 2310 architecture has found its way to the moon, Patek complications, and even the odd Tissot. It’s a highly collected, storied, and tested movement. If you wanted, you could get one on your wrist under a few grand in the form of a Seamaster 321. Alternatively, if you wanted to celebrate its many accomplishments,…
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Blancpain Air Command Flyback LE
Unfortunate timing can break an otherwise impenetrable product. This year, that wrecking ball was called COVID. Last May, right when the uncertainty was at a height, Blancpain thought just the thing we all needed was a new chronograph. Maybe not their most strategic play. However, I think it’s worth drawing a little more attention pieces…
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Tiffany-Signed Triple Six Sea Dweller
Some collectors go gaga for haute complication. Others prefer a good tropical dial. But there’s an entire category of watch addicts who just like double-signed dials: Serpico, Beyer, Gubelin, and above all Tiffany. But not all Tiffany dials are created equally. Tiffany Sea Dwellers are substantially rarer than subs. Tiffany triple sixes (my preference of…
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Reasonable Grail: the Tudor Big Block 94200
There’s a strong demand from collectors for vintage Rolex chronographs (even vintage Rolex-ish chronographs). Exhibit A: all Daytonas. Exhibit B: all Monte Carlos. But the under-appreciated Exhibit C comes by way of the Tudor Big Block. It used to be the Big Block was considered a means to an end; a path toward Rolex. These…
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