Jaeger Lecoultre ‘Tank’ 6129.21
At a glance, this is a Cartier. But upon close study, this JLC ‘Tank’ presents a very charming alternative to the French monolith. If you like the aesthetic of Cartier but want a Swiss watchmaker’s expertise, this may be your best option. The 6129 features a slightly more rounded 18K YG case with a snap…
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A Singer Reimagined Track1 Hong Kong
I for one loathe all automaker to watchmaker analogies. As a keen enthusiast of each sphere, they are never right. Rolex is not like Porsche. Patek is not like Buggati and certainly not Rolls-Royce. Everything is too loosely connected to be useful, it’s always a vast over simplification. That said, I don’t think Singer Reimagined…
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Tropical Clebar Valjoux 7733 Diver
Clebar is not a terribly well-known brand. They will not be at GPHG next year. But they—like Leonidas—had a partnership with Heuer that would see the creation of some lovely 70s chronographs. There were simple two-register affairs like this panda, pilots with large tachy scales, and a few slightly more developed divers. Today we have…
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The Simple Lange: Saxonia Thin
A simple Lange is an oxymoron, to be sure. But what better contradiction is there than this Saxonia thin? Lower independent manufacturers can often hide behind complication, as reverse engineering them is actually easier than developing a high standard of finishing. When you pair back all the the jumping hours, triple splits, and moonphases, a…
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Transitional Rolex 16800 Sub Mk1
Rolex changed the 1680 sub over to the 16800 in 1980. As usual, the changes were subtle. The bezel became racheted and uni-directinal, the crystal went sapphire, a slimmer case was introduced with a 100m deeper rating, and quick-set date function was added to a higher-beat movement. Okay, maybe the changes weren’t so subtle. Here’s…
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The Forgotten Grand Seiko LE: SBGR305
Grand Seiko and Omega are never ones to shy away from good limited edition. If it’s Tuesday, there’s a new Speedmaster LE. If the seasons are changing, count on Grand Seiko to turn that mood into a dial texture. One of the downsides to fairly frequent LE releases is that they begin to blur together….
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An Elusive ‘3 Red Dot’ Patek Philippe 3712
You likely know Gerald Genta’s design and the Nautilus story—sketched over dinner on a napkin whilst staring at a yacht. The iconic porthole case was born later that year and, despite pricing above the Royal Oak, to immediate success. Then Hublot bought some tracing paper. What happened to the Nautilus 3700 after its initial success,…
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1 of 768: Jaeger Lecoultre Polaris Limited 190.8.96
If I’ve featured JLC a little heavily in the last month, I apologize. In my defense, I’m not sure you can feature JLC too heavily. There have been a few very appetizing references surfacing lately. I remember a period of four months where there wasn’t a single Polaris LE 190.8.96 on Chrono24. I checked back…
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Scarce Speedmaster: White Gold Apollo XI 3692.30
In today’s edition of rare Speedmasters you probably won’t see again this year, here’s the white gold Apollo XI. The lovely thing about white gold Speedmasters, as platinum, is the stealth wealth. If you’re not a fan of metallurgy, and most aren’t, it looks like a steel Moonwatch at a glance. Only you know it’s…
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Well-Preserved Universal Genève Aéro-Compax Oversize
I am constantly amazed at how variably different pieces may patina. A bakelite GMT from the 60s can look well and truly fucked, while simultaneously this Compax from the 40s looks under a decade young (if it weren’t for the proportion & design). That is testament to how well constructed this Universal is. The same…
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