H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in Green
I often the more archetypal, paired-back offerings from a house the more attractive options. This Pioneer, for example, is like a distilled essence of Moser. The Pioneer offers a classic Fumé dial with a contemporary case, crown, and hand design. No frills. Instead, Moser focussed on perfecting their craft. The smoked dial steals all your…
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1 of 100: A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split
A traditional double rattrapante is a notoriously difficult complication to engineer, assemble, and service. In 2004, Lange introduced a double split that was for many years a king of the genre. Lange are famous for machining and assembling an entire movement only to fully disassemble, check for wear, and finally re-assemble a completed caliber. Most…
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Breitling SuperOcean 2005, Beauty in the Details
The SuperOcean reference 2005 is a diver decidedly unlike any other. First, there’s the ‘slow’ minute-step chronograph to measure time elapsed underwater. Second, there’s the fact that the chronograph hand is effectively spatula-shaped with a rotund lume plot. Third, Breitling included an indicator above 6 on the dial to mark when the chronograph is running…
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IWC Ceramic Fliegerchronograph
I’ve already written at length about the 3705 when we sold one in 2018. Even then, the 3705 was a highly coveted and rare reference. Today, it’s the same only more. I can’t add anything to the previous article’s story, except that this IWC only looks better every time I see it. Both the 3705…
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Alternative Diver: Eterna Kontiki Super 130
If you’re after just any vintage diver these days, you’re well cared for. There are no shortages of Submariners, Seamasters, T-Graphs, or even 62MASs. However, if you get off on the lesser-known vintage models, your work is increasingly cut out. It’s quite difficult to come across a decent Enicar Sherpa Super Dive or Universal Genève…
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A Very Tropical Early Offshore 25721ST ‘The Beast’
The Royal Oak Offshore, nicknamed the Beast, is a grail to many. D-Series serial numbers designate this beast as one of the first 200 examples ever to have been produced. These very rare, very early production pieces had some unique processes in their dial production resulting in a highly varied patination. Although there are just…
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Leonidas CP-2 Flyback Italian Air Force
Recent re-editions of the Breitling AVI, Heuer/Sinn Bundeswehr, and Zenith’s A. Cairelli have brought increased attention to vintage Air Force chronographs. There’s one that often goes forgotten, simply because the manufacture no longer exists. Leonidas merged with Heuer in 1962. Before that union, they made small batches of beautiful chronographs issued to the Italian Air…
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Kurono Tokyo JDM-Only Bullseye
Hajime Asaoka is a self-taught, high-end, and independent watchmaker taking on Swiss heavyweights. Moreover, winning against Swiss heavyweights. Asaoka started as a product designer. Like many of us he fell in love with horology. Unlike many of us, he started machining and tinkering. He read George Daniel’s bible, watched too much Youtube, and began machining…
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Pre-Daytona Rolex 6238 in Yellow Gold
Describing a gold wristwatch as elegance personified would be an incredible pretentious thing to do. And yet, here typing this, I am tempted to. These 6238s, like many early Rolex chronographs, don’t shout with bright colors or oversized lugs. They simply are icons. I’ve written before about the legacy of the Daytona and how the…
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An FP Journe Vertical Souverain Tourbillon
Describing technical innovation within a largely antiquated art is a mildly-hilarious thing. However, to properly describe this Journe, that is the task I have been set. The tourbillon is a complication which constantly rotates an escapement to even the effects of gravity on its balance spring. I’d refer you to this article by Breguet if…
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