Tropical Universal Genève 204610/4 Polerouter Date
The Polerouter is probably the best entry point into our addiction. The model offers incredible breadth, engineering innovation across multiple fronts, and Genta design all at a not-yet-absurd entry point. The Polerouter was released in honor of a first flight over the North Pole, hence the title. More impressive, however, was the introduction of a…
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An Ultra Thin Vacheron Constantin 39005
Dress pieces don’t come much more delicate than this humble but beautiful VC. The oldest running Swiss watch manufacture was just clawing back its territory in the early 90s after the quartz crisis. It did so with the 222/Overseas, a few classic chronographs, and a swathe of extremely elegant dress watches. This 39005 is from…
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A First Execution Certina DS Diver 5601-012
Certina has a varied history with many high points. At various intervals they have been a movement manufacture and later full watch manufacture. In the early 60s, Certina went wild for the dive watch. In truth, almost everyone went wild for the dive watch. But Certina did so with daring, unique designs and (technically, though…
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IWC Pilot Mark XVII ‘Le Petit Prince’
The modern standard for the pilot has been set by the IWC mark series. From the original X & XIs on the wrist of RAF pilots to the clean design of the XV, the model has seen a slow evolution always fit to purpose. This is a tool watch. But this tool watch is a…
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Cartier CPCP ‘Wandering Hour’ Tank 2554
When you think of Cartier watches, you probably imagine Jacqueline Kennedy and her tank. At a stretch, your mind may run to the crash or new asymetrique. What you almost certainly do not immediately imagine is a Cartier Paris Collection Privée (CPCP). Yet, if you’re reading this blog, you should. The CPCP range was an…
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Value Proposition: Universal Genève Space-Compax 885104
If you were to press me to name the ultimate Universal chronograph, I would struggle but ultimately crown the 881101 ‘Eric Clapton’. However, for fun, wrist presence, and off-brand moonwatch vibes, you really can’t compete with this close second—the bizarre and beautiful Space-Compax. Origin and purpose of the Space-Compax remain foggy at best. Some guess…
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The Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo
Creating an icon is no easy task. AP, Patek, and Vacheron succeeded in this some 40 years ago. This holy trinity (a term created by AP, Patek, and Vacheron to describe the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and 222/Overseas) saw a rise to fame in the years after their introduction. All three remain icons today. Integrated bracelets…
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Grand Seiko Skyflake SBGA407
Grand Seiko is all the rage right now. The horological enthusiast’s darling brand is enjoying a new found and well-deserved appreciation from the community at large. The SBGA211 snowflake is certainly almost entirely responsible for that reputation. Simply, there is not a more gorgeous dial with a more innovative movement for less money. Never one…
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A Lemania RAF Monopusher Series 3
Aviator’s chronographs are certainly some of the more sought-after pieces in military collecting. The humble complication is a tool with an important purpose in aviation, but still useful outside of it. Lemania, in collaboration with Omega and Tissot, created some of the most robust, widespread military chronographs. Also, arguably, some of the most handsome. There…
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2998 Pre-Moon Military Speedmaster
Give me alpha hands, a dot over 90, caliber 321 and I’m a happy man. However, when you add an interesting history I’m not happy, I’m obsessed. This 2998 is simply as good as they come for me. I don’t look for pristine safe queens or box and papers. I like pieces that tell a…
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