46004 Vacheron Constantin Square 222

Far before the Cubitus took a legend and messed about with its proportions, Vacheron Constantin took their integrated poster child and injected some of David Coulthard’s chin. It didn’t work back then either. In fact, the Square 222 was a total flop. It is unconventional, still shrouded in mystery, and scarcely seen. Until the Cubitus launch, the Square 222 (ref. 46004), was largely only remember by the kind of people that read us. It was audacious, charmingly not-beautiful, and very, very square. Why Patek Philippe brought back this idea we’ll never know. But Vacheron certainly did it better.

The 222, famously, was also not terribly successful at launch. A few years later, this was heralded as an answer. No one knows who designed it. Where the 222 was Jorg Hysek, this Square 222 was dictated top-down by upper management. AP had just released the rectangular ‘Royal Oak’ ref. 6005 and Patek Philippe were getting trippy with the 3770 Nautellipse as well. But where the other members of the holy trinity had selected quartz for their alternative variants of integrated steel, Vacheron kept things mechanical. That means this is a true alternative to the 222, still powered by a JLC 920 ébauche, only separated by shape.

Most think the Square full size 222 was made in fewer than 300 examples, though the number is an estimation. Most are bimetal, but the all-steel is the one people want. Historically, these have traded hands around 30K US. They aren’t as storied or sought after as the standard ref. 44018. However, a huge splash was made earlier this year when Phillips auctioned a Square 222 for 65K USD. The tides are moving. This example looks every bit the part of a watch that’s been in a drawer for a couple decades. It’s a reference, complete set too. If you’re considering a Cubitus, first, why? But, second, at least know where the idea came from.

This example is kind of unreal. The case is untouched, seemingly hard worn, and the dial is perfectly tan in the tritium. There's nothing to remark on here. Maybe you'd want a mechanical service if indeed it has been sitting in a drawer for 30 years as it appears to have, but that's all. It comes from a well-regarded Amsterdam retailer, full kit.