3738R Patek Philippe Ellipse

The Ellipse case might just be one of the most timeless shapes the 1970s produced, the age of the Jet Set and turmoil simultaneously. This ref. 3738 is one of the longest-lived references in Patek Philippe, arguably the height of Ellipse. It spanned 1984 until around 2009 and four main series. They are all calibre 240 micro-rotors, Geneva Seal calibres as much beauty as you can find in a time-only. And there’s an awful lot of history to this simple shape, even aside from the Golden Ratio or Henri Stern’s influence.

There is some controversy here. While often attributed to Genta, Genta himself said it was designed by Patek Philippe and Jean-Daniel Rubeli, who headed their R&D. But then in another quote Rubeli said he’d never have created the idea without Genta. And then some say then-head of electronics Georges Delessert was inspired by the American highway junction as seen from above. Who really knows? However, both Genta & Rubeli say it was originally designed for AP, or at least a similar shape was. However, where AP played with the shape, Patek Philippe made it strictly according to the Golden Ratio. This is one of the most reserved ‘shaped’ watches, but a design-led object all the same.

The other step Patek took which AP didn’t was alchemy: creating 18k blue and brown golds. Patek Philippe worked together with Singer to develop a system of vacuum plating where cobalt and gold are vaporized then condensed. Golden Ellipse refers not just to the ratio, but also this method. From there the range exploded in scope, with integrated bracelets, skeletons, and a range of dials including lapis. As an example, the last one we highlighted was made for Saddam Hussein with his signature on the dial. There’s even a 3770 Nautellipse. Then came lighters, cuff links, and the rest. It was an institution. This 3738 comes from the center of production, in the larger case size. There are four series of this ref. 3738, this pink gold brown dial symphony in warmness comes from the final fourth series.

This example hails from 2008 and doesn't look a day older. The domed hour markers and Swiss signature help cement that date, it is definitely a fourth series. The case shows only very light signs of use and this example comes to market with its full kit, from a well-regarded Genevan retailer.