'Gobbi Milano' Dial 2526 Patek Philippe Calatrava

Enamel dials, grand feu or cloisonné, are a dying art. There are only a handful of manufactures who still craft them. In Vintage Patek Philippe, it’s usually just the signature and tracks in hard, engraved enamel. The 2526 is one of just a handful of references to sport an entirely enamel dial, which simply leaves a vastly different impression in the metal. Or ceramic, I should say? If the goal of a Calatrava is to last generations in elegance, the 2526 succeeds with flying colors. However, this is quite unlike almost any other 2526 you’ll find. 

When you fire enamel powder it adheres to the base metal, with layers built up on top to create the degree of depth you’re looking for. The thicker the enamel, the more depth. Modern dials are fired between 5 and 10 times to create this lustre. The 2526 is rumored to have been fired only twice at Stern Frères, with two pleasingly thick applications. The fewer the fires and the thicker the layers, the greater failure rate. For modern firing, 1 in every 6 or so is selected. For something like this, it would’ve been about 1 in 10. Additionally, only on this reference, the dial’s base was made of silver. Most enamel dials you’ll find today have a copper base. Hence you get this deep cream, porcelain sheen. But they are also more fragile. 

This is all not even to mention that the 2526 was Patek’s first self-wound watch with the calibre 12-600 AT. In 1953, the retail price on bracelet was 3400 CHF, just 400 CHF less than a 2499 (yellow gold both). That should tell you something about the quality here. Fun fact, also: the 2526 very likely has the very first decorated rotor in history. It is estimated that only 500-600 examples were ever made between 1953 and 1960, very few of which look like this.

This one is made by its dial. Gobbi Milano have a rich history as a retailer going back to 1942 as Royal Clockmakers. Their name has shown up on a few 2526, and it is always special. 2526 dials can sport a range of retailer signatures, but the best ones are in the gold lettering, matching the signature at 12. And it’s not just made by a retailer signature, but this fantastic Gay Freres brick bracelet, signed by Patek Philippe at the clasp.

This example sports a great case, solid hallmarks, and a dial showing no fractures of issues anywhere. It comes from a well-regarded Dutch retailer, with Extract and service papers from 2019.