SBGZ005, Kintaro Hattori 160th, Platinum

The SBGZ005 was created in 2020 by the Micro Artist Studio in honor of Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori, on the 160th anniversary of his birth. A platinum interpretation of the 'First' Grand Seiko case, the SBGZ005 brought the apex of Japanese watchmaking into focus. Its Calibre 9R02 is a manual-wind Spring Drive largely derived from the Credor Eichi II. Just fifty were made, and at debut it was the most valuable watch Grand Seiko had ever produced—the first 'First'-inspired project in the Masterpiece collection.

Study begins with the dial, more historic than it seems. Its engraved pattern of repeating lines arranged in triangles mirrors suribachi, the traditional Japanese mortar, whose ridges are combed into clay. The pattern was intended for the final series of 3180 'First' production in 1963, but only one prototype dial was made. Sixty years later, it finally reached its intended home in a 'First' case, executed with far greater grandeur: 112 flawlessly Zaratsu-polished surfaces across its indices alone. Even the seconds hand is heat-tempered platinum rather than blued steel—notoriously difficult, achieving a muted cobalt tone.

The platinum case is 37.5mm and just 9.6mm thin, faithful to the 3180 yet contemporary. But it is the calibre that makes those proportions possible. The 9R02 delivers 84 hours of reserve from dual barrels, accuracy of ±1 second per day, floral bridge architecture, and exceptional traditional finishing. Early on, Philippe Dufour was brought to Nagano to teach his techniques; the Studio even grows the same gentian wood he uses to hand-polish rounded anglage. Sharp inner and outer corners define the negative space between the bridges, revealing the magnetically governed glide wheel. No prior Grand Seiko calibre approached it in architecture or finish.

This is the ultimate time-only Grand Seiko. In contrast to its apparent simplicity, the SBGZ005 rewards study, from the Torque Return System to the bellflower mainspring relief — not to mention a dial revived from the prototype archives. Japanese restraint and perfect traditional technique marry in a design realized sixty years on: a pinnacle conclusion to the 'First'.

This SBGZ005 presents in exceptional overall condition. The case appears to have been hardly worn if at all. Its dial shows no damage or visible flaws. Calibre 9R02 is running well in specification with no deviation, not in need of service. It comes with its original full set, original straps (brown and black), and our grey alligator strap pictured in listing.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.