Archive for June 2021
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time in Rose Gold
As a sweeping rule, watch people care about details. We fixate on fonts, deliberate over detent escapements, scrutinize split seconds. Lange are one of very, very few watchmakers who concentrate more on details than their clientele. Way, way more in fact. If one made a list of the most visually impressive watch movements of the…
Read MoreKhanjar Rolex Day-Date 1803 in Blue & WG
Why do I feature a mechanically standard 1803 Day-Date? Because every single khanjar Rolex has a story to tell. Additionally, they are just fucking cool. The khanjar, a traditional J-shaped dagger (which is a symbol of pride in Oman’s history), was used on Rolex commissioned for Omani royalty. Frequently, these pieces were also manufactured in…
Read MoreWell-Preserved Omega ‘Pie Pan’ Constellation 167.005
When I think Mad Men and Don Draper specifically, this is the very first watch that comes to mind. Now, strictly speaking that is an anachronism. Madmen chronicles the insanity that was the early 1960s America. This Constellation comes to us from 68. However, the Constellation design DNA—which this latter example draws on—started in the…
Read More2998 Omega Speedmaster Straight-Lug
In my mind, a Speedmaster needs alpha hands. This is, I know, nonsense. There are plenty of meaningful references with broad arrows, batons, or even lollipops. Neil Armstrong didn’t need alphas. And yet, I feel an unbalanced attraction to pre-moon and FOIS Speedmasters simply because of their hand silhouette. The 2998 holds a special appeal…
Read MoreOchs Und Junior Annual Calendar in Rust
As a bit of an automotive enthusiast, rust terrifies me. It is the cancer of all mechanical art. One which we seek desperately to avoid. To see it celebrated openly seems simultaneously beautiful and sacrilegious. If any niche could pull off the celebration mechanics and rust, it would be independent watchmakers. Ochs Und Junior are…
Read MoreOpera Exotic Diver 10470
I live for fun dials. My life is sad, I am aware. But nonetheless, I cannot hide my enthusiasm for this ultra-outrageous 1970s diver from Opera watches. I know nothing about Opera other than that they created some shouty divers from ETA bases in the mid 70s. This 2783-base example incorporates a 38mm case, domed…
Read More1655 Rolex Explorer II ‘Freccione’ Mark 5
They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but with this 1655 Freccione (Italian for arrow, or orange-hand today), I’m beginning to think beauty is better defined by the eye of the market. In the last five years 1655 values have been steadily trending upward at an increasing rate . . .and for…
Read MoreUniversal Genève Compur R12445
After having recently featured Universal’s international variant, it seems timely that a lovely example of the genuine article is now on offer. This Compur, which later became the Compax, was a chronograph contemporary of Patek’s 130 and VC’s 4072. Neither of those chronographs are exactly unattractive. The same goes for this two-register gold Compur, a…
Read More1 of 5 Romain Gauthier Logical One BTG
Haute horology is normally obsessed with elegance, fit, and finish. Romain Gauthier hits the latter two, but opts for a more industrial approach to watchmaking’s top end. The Logical One is his principle work, a brave movement design with little consideration given to tradition. GPHP has acknowledged the genuis in this approached, awarding the ‘Best…
Read MoreAP Royal Oak Extra-Thin ‘Salmon Jumbo’ 15202BC
Audemars Piguet has never shied away from limited releases. There are boutique Royal Oaks, commemorative Royal Oaks, and custom-order Royal Oaks from early in the model’s history. Modern limited releases usually vary in dial hue or material. Today’s feature changes both. The white gold and salmon 15202BC was released in 2019 as a bit of…
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