Archive for April 2021
KAF-Issued Heuer 73663 Autavia
When you think military-issued pieces, you probably think milsub for the Royal Navy, MN Tudors, or the dirty dozen. You probably do not imagine Heuers for the Kenyan Air Force. And yet, funky-vintage-cool does not come much more funky-vintage-cool than this KAF-issued 73663. The Autavia was, as I’m sure you know, a contraction of automotive-aviation.…
Read MoreGrand Seiko 45GS 4520-8000
If you want a classic Japanese ‘grammar of design’ and the early GS 36000 vph hi-beat movement, 45GS is your choice. Although modern Grand Seiko impresses mostly with their technical and detailed approach, they are leaning on something. They’re leaning on rock solid, beautiful designs forged in the mid 60s. The 45GS is one of…
Read MoreVacheron Constantin 4072
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: one of the great weaknesses of my generation (Y and over) is the un-appreciation of subtlety. For the most part, we like flash. Rolex knows this. I believe deep in my core that the Stella dial OPs released last year were aimed squarely at my demographic.…
Read MoreLongines 7150 Skin Diver
I’ve written multiple times here on why I love the 7150. I love all EPSA Super Compressors for the most part, but this design hits just right. One property of the 7150 that never fails to impress me is their sheer diversity. Some go grey, some go rusty, some go chocolate. It is a reference…
Read MoreHamilton 1813 6B RAF-Issued
Although field watch is somewhat ambiguous and meaningless designation, I think this RAF Hamilton could be a perfect working definition. The watch is completely without pretense, function over all other considerations. Mildly undersized for comfort, tritium for legibility, an uncluttered dial, and simple (easily fixable) movement. I long for simplicity in the era of the…
Read MoreHaute Daily: FP Journe Octa Sport Rattrapante
Casual FP Journe is an oxymoron. Nonetheless, this rattrapante was an attempt at just that. If there is an unloved Journe category, the Line Sport is probably it. The centigraphe is remarkable for its complication and abilities, it occasionally sees mention. Yet, despite some others looking like lemondrops, they all don’t really get much limelight.…
Read MoreAn Impossibly Beautiful Vetta Cronografo Ermetico Impermeable
Not many designs from 1940 feel at home today. Certainly, few have aged as gracefully as the humble multi-scale chronograph. This is particularly true of this Italian Valjoux-based clamshell. Vetta was the Italian-branded partner of Wyler’s European arm. Small alterations were made to the Wyler designs, such as the flair of colorful details this example…
Read MoreEnicar Sherpa Superdive Compressor
Superdive is a good name. 812 Superfast is also a good name. I often think to myself the adjectives which are most child-like and simplistic are best. Why do we say nephrologist and not kidney doctor? Latin-obsessed exclusionary fuckery. I digress. This oversized 1960s Enicar is, in fact, a super diver. Enicar was a long…
Read MoreRolex 3525 ‘Barilotto’ in Pink Gold & Steel with Champagne Dial
Impossibly conspicuous wristwatches and impossibly tasteful wristwatches are often mutually exclusive categories. An RM-030 with its declutchable rotor mechanism is very conspicuous and very innovative. But it most certainly is not tasteful. In fact, I’ve heard various RMs described as ‘Invacta for the 1%’. I may or may not agree. Likewise, the recent Girard Perregaux…
Read MoreLongines 7855-1 in a Tropical Pink
Having recently featured the incredibly debonaire pink-on-pink 96R Calatrava recently, I thought I’d offer a more attainable alternative. More attainable, but no less unique. In fact, due to the incredible ageing this example wears, it may be more unique. Longines may be most associated with horse racing and the Kentucky Derby today, but they were…
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