Archive for January 2021
The Controversial Cream Dial 16570 Explorer II
Few defects are as beautiful as the Explorer II cream dial. Early white dial Explorer II production runs had a paint defect which, after a few years, aged the dials to a beautiful ivory. Less than halfway through the run, Rolex corrected this and left collectors with two rare references to hunt. Like all good…
Read MoreIWC Aquatimer ‘Galapagos Islands’
Rubber is not a precious material. Despite that, it has been fusing slowly into haute-horology more and more every year. This IWC bathed in vulcanized rubber was one of the first high-end Swiss watches to truly embrace the material. In addition, it was developed for a cause. IWC is a long term partner of the…
Read MoreLip-Signed Breitling 765 Co-Pilot
For a stretch of four months two years ago, I searched every single night for a 765 Co-Pilot. In time, I found just one. In the somewhat mad market conditions we have now, there are three currently on offer. I wrote about the first great example I came across recently a few weeks back. If…
Read MoreJapan-Only Grand Seiko SBGJ231 GMT
Japanese culture is only a recent fascination of the West—myself included. I have two Grand Seikos in my watchbox and Yamazaki 12 on my shelf. I adore both addictions. Japan has become so in-vogue in the last few years, however, that they’ve had to limit export. Yamazaki and Hibiki with age statements above 12 are…
Read MoreTiffany-Signed 16520 Zenith Daytona
It may seem only topical to feature a 16520 Zenith Daytona a few days after the Daytona-copy Zenith hit media, but I assure you this 16520 is above that noise. With its steel bezel, screw pushers, and running seconds at 9, there is no mistaking one for another. What’s more, you won’t even mistake this…
Read MoreA Bizarre Value Proposition: Urwerk 105 TA
If Bruce Wayne wears a ‘Batman’ GMT-Master II (with Nolan, in fact, he wore a Reverso), the actual Batman suit would include this Urwerk. Urwerk’s engineered approach to watchmaking lends such a unique aesthetic that it almost seems like it belongs on the pages of a comic book. Completely disregarding all common rules of classical…
Read MoreNew Old Stock 1999 Swatch ‘Jelly Stag’
A watch can bring with it a strong hit of nostalgia like few objects can. Swatch created the Jellyfish in 1983 and it was their largest success of the time. Notorious B.I.G., Keith Haring, and Damien Hirst were all fans of the design. Follow-up models, accessories, and whole decade of colorful semi-translucent Swatches flooded department…
Read MoreWabi-Sabi Gilt 5512 Submariner
I think what appeals to me so strongly in a tropical watch is that it’s a massive middle finger to the idea of putting a watch in a safe and waiting for appreciation. I like watches to be used as intended—embracing the effects as a consequence of a life well spent (this is also why…
Read MoreOmega Bucherer Darth Vader 145.023
In the early 70s, Omega brought out the ref 145.023 chronograph. It featured a bulky, bright-tungsten finished 44mm case. With a bright white tachy scale, advanced 861 chronograph, and helmet-like shape, the watch became known as the Anakin Skywalker. A few months after initial release, they followed it up with a black tungsten version ref…
Read MoreHeuer Camaro 7743S
The last of Heuer’s manually wound chronographs, the Camaro is a bit of an acquired taste. It is a simple design, yet one which has stood the test of time, looking better today than ever previously. This more subdued Heuer (relative to a Monaco) sports a 37.5mm case with a simple white dial, short chronograph…
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