Value Prop: 20217/5 Universal Genève Polerouter


Of the last decade, Universal’s Polerouter has slowly shifted from being a niche enthusiast’s micro-rotor to a foundational reference of attainable watch collecting. No one will argue that this is not deserved; the Genta-designed aesthetic is graceful as they come. However, that shift has also seen values skyrocket, as with everything. The very earliest Polerouters,…

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Value Proposition: Bulova Snorkel 666-Feet ‘Devil Diver’


A damn great watch doesn’t always have to require dipping into to your least successful child’s college fund. It’s easy to become cynical when a humble no date Sub is listed as an ‘investment class’. Yet, I believe in the core of my being that watches should be enjoyable to their wearer, and that in…

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Value Proposition: 71.1309.70 Wakmann Triple Calendar Chronograph


Interesting and attractive watches can still be found for reasonable prices. Wakmann were, from the 1940s until 1970s, a US importer for Breitling. Toward the middle of that tenure, the group decided to branch out and bring their own sporting watches to market. In doing so, they tapped Breitling’s supply chain for high quality, value-based…

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Value Proposition: 6246-9000 Grand Seiko


Grand Seiko’s first-ever automatic appeared in 1967 and today goes by the 62GS. For collectors, those four characters mean something special. The case was beautifully Japanese, with unnecessary facets on its graceful almost-lyre-like-lugs and an offset recessed crown at 4 meant to advertise the fact that one needn’t wind this. In steel and 36mm with…

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Value Proposition: 9411/0 Tudor Snowflake


The Rolex Submariner is perhaps the most iconic wristwatch of all time. The Tudor Submariner, well it isn’t. And it’s all the better for it. Tudor’s 9411/0 Snowflake sub is not rare. But it is purposeful, eccentric, inconspicuous, and a value still today. Moreover, unlike a 5513, you’d have to be well down the road…

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Value Prop: 6088 Benrus Ultra-Deep


This unsuspecting yet charming diver holds a wealth of intrigue. This is partly due to its monoblock frontloading single-crown compressor case, immense legibility, and bakelite bezel. Perhaps even moreso, however, for its mysterious and shrouded military history embroiled in the Vietnam War. Scholarship is very much currently developing. The 6088 is not a common Ultra-Deep…

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Value Prop: 168.061 Omega Seamaster Chronometer


1960s Seamasters and Constellations are, undoubtedly, one of the most tasteful and tempting buys in all of horology right now. This restrained Seamaster was in fact Omega’s halo product in the era of Sinatra, James Dean, and Mad Men. Chronometer certification was not economical or easy in this era, or indeed today. Yet, somehow, these…

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Value Prop: Tritium Service Dial 1016 Rolex Explorer


I don’t even think it’s contentious for me to admit that I fundamentally distrust people who don’t love the 1016. An Alpinist for the affluent, the 1016’s humble can-do practicality and tritium dial prove irresistible in the long-term for the vast majority of watch collectors. Many Rolex devotees have a preference for fat font dials,…

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Value Prop: Turquoise Zenith Defy Diver 600


The recent reissue of Zenith’s very 70s Defy Diver has brought some interesting variants out of the woodwork. Recently, collector Greg Selch discussed on the big H that he owns over 40 distinct Defy Diver examples. Then a friend, @livingstonatnight, added to that ledger with multiple more unique Defy Divers configurations. Despite the reissue, attention,…

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Value Prop: RAF-Issued British Military Omega 6B/542


I am not a pedant, but I must admit that the recent Bond Seamaster rubbed me the wrong way. To many watch collectors, myself included, the MoD broad arrow symbol is a bit sacred. Seeing a commercialized movie prop given that marking by Omega themselves seemed to me uncomfortably close to the watch equivalent of…

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