Posts Tagged ‘Haute Horology’
Quintessential Modern QP: AP Royal Oak White 25820ST Perpetual
I have been accused once or twice of showing my vintage feed favoritism. This is perhaps fair, I do find myself drawn to bit a tritium, manual chronographage (that’s a word, just invented it), and acrylic crystal. However, I love modern watchmaking. An enduring favorite of mine within the genre is AP’s Royal Oak QP.…
Read MoreLaurent Ferrier Micro-Rotor Régulateur École
If you’ve spent time here, you’ll know I have an immense affection for Laurent Ferrier. The man’s work speaks for itself, very eloquently. Mr Ferrier is perhaps most famed for contrasting classic design and proportions with thoroughly modern movements, all finished to an exacting standard. He is also known for a damn great micro-rotor execution.…
Read MoreGrönefeld 1941 Principia Salmon
I’ve often said here that I tend to gravitate toward a given brand’s more minimal offerings. Pairing back the flying tourbillons, flyback chronographs, and deadbeat-seconds leaves room for a watchmaker’s design and finishing efforts to shine through. Leave it to the slightly unhinged Dutch brothers to design a time-only watch that has been more carefully…
Read MorePatek Philippe 533 in Rose Gold
When one thinks 1940s wristwatches, dedicated big pilots, telemetre scales, and Compaxes race to mind. There was, however, a more celebrated side to watchmaking that continued through hardship. Not every movement was intended to be a tool. Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet made extremely refined chronographs in the period where they were just…
Read MoreCartier Libre Collection Crash Radieuse
Let us begin with obvious: the story surround the Crash name is almost certainly invented marketing. For the unaware, there is legend that a client of Jean-Jacques Cartier brought in a Baignoire that had been damaged in an automobile accident. The oddly damaged and burned watch sparked inspiration for this first-ever asymmetric watch case design.…
Read MoreSeconds Series Patek Philippe 3970R
The perpetual calendar chronograph is a haute complication that Patek Philippe has perfected to such an extent as to become synonymous with the entire category. This 3970 succeeded the 2499 in the mid 80s and dominated the category for its production length. This post-quartz period was time when few complicated mechanical pieces existed; Patek saw…
Read MoreInverted Perfection: Voutilainen 28PI
I recently learned that there is a form of sweetener called invert sugar which is a synthesized blend of pure glucose and fructose. Our nervous systems interpret this as even sweeter than regular sugar, gram per gram. Do I even have to make the analogy? Kari Voutilainen’s 28PI inverts the movement to place its bridge,…
Read MoreWaterproof Spacewear: De Bethune DB28GS
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève does not fuck around. Their Aiguille d’Or Award, or ‘Golden Hand’ (best watch of the year to us unilingual peasants . . .also shouldn’t it be golden wrist?), is one of the highest honours a piece of metal can receive. I can remember having a casual interest in watches…
Read MoreA. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time in Rose Gold
As a sweeping rule, watch people care about details. We fixate on fonts, deliberate over detent escapements, scrutinize split seconds. Lange are one of very, very few watchmakers who concentrate more on details than their clientele. Way, way more in fact. If one made a list of the most visually impressive watch movements of the…
Read More1 of 5 Romain Gauthier Logical One BTG
Haute horology is normally obsessed with elegance, fit, and finish. Romain Gauthier hits the latter two, but opts for a more industrial approach to watchmaking’s top end. The Logical One is his principle work, a brave movement design with little consideration given to tradition. GPHP has acknowledged the genuis in this approached, awarding the ‘Best…
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