Posts Tagged ‘Haute Horology’
Green De Bethune DB25QP Perpetual
Insanely technical independent De Bethune are perhaps best known for their use (or misuse) of the pun Starry Varius or insane lug designs. The manufacture is an involved one, one of the few independents that manufacture everything from the hairspring to the handset vertically. Outside of heat blued titanium, they are not closely associated with…
Read MoreThe First-Ever Roger W. Smith Series I
It would be callous of me not to discuss this lot. The circular Series I is Roger Smith’s recent time-only master stroke. Confusingly, it comes after the Series II, which came after the square Series I. Despite it being one of Mr Smith’s more recent productions, the watch is as special as anything to leave…
Read MorePatek Philippe 130 in Steel
As Patek’s first chronograph produced at meaningful scale, the 130 holds a special place in many collector’s hearts. It also happens to be one of their most diverse and longest-reaching vintage production runs ever. The design was given space to evolve from 1934 until 1964, with changes going so far as to include different calibres…
Read MoreBrass FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain
Watchmakers like FP Journe, Philippe Dufour, and Roger Smith each carry individual philosophies that take time to understand. However, while infinitely esteemed and laudable watchmakers, Dufour and Smith are not in the collector zeitgeist in the same way that Journe is today. The former are names whispered only in the corners of auctions rooms and…
Read MoreTürler-signed Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
An ultra-thin Calatrava may be executed to an exacting standard by a Lange or Patek. The Saxonia is a stellar (literally) modern Germanic discourse in simplicity. Patek’s Calatrava line may be the most historically storied time-only dial of all time. That said, I’m not sure either have executed their pure-dress offering with the same master…
Read MoreLudovic Ballouard Upside Down
One of the most singularly amazing recent trends of modern independent watchmaking is a decoupling of innovation from purpose. I’ve heard it said before that for something to be art it can have no purpose other than itself. In that regard, this Upside Down certainly earns its title as a work of art, though one…
Read MoreFirst Generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph
In any sane market, when a new model debuts, consumers prefer it to the previous. Take modern autmotive enthusiasts as an example. The new G82 M4 will likely be more appealing to a new buyer than the previous F82 M4 (okay maybe that’s a bad example). But as a general rule, new is better than…
Read MoreDeep-Blue Dialed Patek Philippe 3445 Calatrava in YG
The 3445 Calatrava was every bit as modern as it was gorgeous in 1961. This petite seconds three-hander was Patek’s first automatic watch with a date window. Watch collectors today tend to turn their noses up at any dial aperture. But this is different. The 3445’s date window was a first, a true innovation. If…
Read MoreFP Journe Octa Lune Brass Movement
Few manufactures have such a harsh delineation between early and latter models as the renown FP Journe. Sure, as an example Rolex produced early dials in gilt and transitioned to tritium, but that’s just a detail. Journe shifted the entire foundation of their movement from brass to gold after an estimated 2000 examples. All brass…
Read MoreVacheron Constantin 222 in Steel, Midsized
The oft-forgotten third musketeer in the original steel sports holy trinity, Vacheron’s 222 has seen increasing limelight in the wake of recent 5711 madness. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve wanted to shout ‘but what about the 222 or Overseas?!’ into the ether whilst reading those Nautilus and Royal Oak grey-market-value articles that…
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