8171, Padellone, Yellow Gold

The ref. 8171 Padellone is one of just a few key moments in history where Rolex contemplated real complication and a direction of elegant calendars over utility. This is a 'what might've been', had a different brand direction been pursued. The 8171 and ref. 6062 and the only two vintage Rolexes with moonphases. Both are the only complete calendars featuring the date, day, month, and moonphase. Of the two, the Padellone is the stronger and bolder. Nicknamed 'Padellone' or frying pan for its thin, flat, and confident 38mm non-Oyster case, it is the least Rolex-like model of all vintage Rolex. The 8171 was made for just 3 short years between 1949 and 1953, as Rolex struggled to put things back together after the war. In that time, fewer than 1200 examples were made across all metals (steel, pink and yellow gold). It is widely estimated that, of these, fewer than 350 yellow gold examples were made.

The Padellone is defined by a series of unusual decisions, starting with the dial (on wrist, the Padellone is all about the dial). Officially argenté, the tone has aged to a champagne cream over time here, with a very slightly contrasting grained blue date track. The handset here is feuille, which seems more Patek Philippe than not, though they can be seen with dauphine hands as well. Its date apertures are bisected by the coronet, with applied pointed indices everywhere except 6, where an applied contrasting dot lives in order to make room for the smiling moonphase. The OCC text on gold examples generally lives in the moonphase, though it can also be under the apertures. 

The 8171 case is equally a departure in function and form. Not only is it 38mm, but the lug finishing and shape is unlike anything else. Additionally, it is not an Oyster in any way, which has led many dials to age less gracefully than this. The crown does not screw down and it features a snap caseback. The lugs sport very sharp unbevelled edges. Lug sides were always vertically brushed satin, though these are often lost over time. The caseback, similarly, is satin brushed, sporting both the case number and coronet engraved. Both are often lost, still present here. Where the Jean-Claude Killy used a Valjoux 72C, the Padellone used a fully Rolex developed automatic calibre A295. 

Roughly 250 examples of the Padellone are well documented today. Many have been restored and, many, not particularly well. The non-Oyster back of an 8171, in conjunction with its case-side correcting pushers, has meant many have aged less gracefully than this example, not touched or restored. Its graceful ageing has been aided by the simple fact that this a non-luminous variant. This dial also has its calendar wheels in Spanish, which is a lovely bonus. Further, this example is really made by its matching 'Oyster bracelet.

The Padellone has ascended to become one of the most desirable Rolexes ever made, alongside the 6062. The proportions are perfect, the dial is timeless, and it is unthinkable that something like this might be made again today. Had the Padellone sold better, perhaps we might have had Rolex perpetual calendars today contending with 3940s. As history actually unfolded, it is not so. But the 8171 remains forever handsome, never burdened with the weight of age. The Padellone and 6062 are the perennially perfect glimpse we actually do have at Rolex pursuing beauty over purpose.

This 8171 is well-preserved, honest, and unrestored. The dial sports light patina in an even, consistent tone. The once eggshell white has moved toward a more champagne or cream color. All printed dial text including the blue date track is present and clear. The edges of the dial show little to no deterioration at all. The Spanish calendar discs have no significant deterioration.

The case is full and sharp in a matching state of honest wear. Lugs still have their side and back satin brushing present, with strong edges. On the lug back, the Helvetia hallmark with the ‘G’ for the Geneva bureau de contrôle is present with extremely strong edges. The case sides equally are a perfect satin. The caseback still bears its serial number (7621XX, last two digits removed in caseback photo as well, or mid-1952) and coronet, where most have been lost to time. Occasional wear as seen the caseback brushing lighten over time, as these do just though normal wear, but it is still just present under close inspection. Importantly, the engravings are still present. The crown is correct for this case serial.

The stretch-rivet Oyster bracelet dates to 1953, within a half-year of the case, also very well preserved with little play.

Calibre A295 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. Service history is unknown, we have chosen not to intervene with a service as timing has not deviated.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist, on both the included stretch rivet Oyster bracelet and our Virage Sand Suede Strap (pictured, sold separately).